Gardening Directory


The Chrysanthemum will grow in any good mould, anaturally good soil being often preferable to an artificial one. Where the ground is not in good condition a compost may be made of one-half rich loam and one-fourth each of well-rotted manure and

leaf-mould, with sufficient sand to keep it porous. Cuttings taken in November or December make the finest exhibition plants. Pot them singly in 2-in. or 3-in. pots; stand them on coal ashes in a cold frame, and re-pot them in March or April in 6-in. pots, making the soil moderately firm. When they attain the height of 6 in. pinch off the extreme point of the shoot, which will induce the growth of side-shoots. Shift the plants from time to time into larger pots, until at the end of May they receive their final shift into 10-in. pots, after which they must not on any account be stopped. In June they may be placed in a sheltered and partially shaded part of the open border, standing the pots on pieces of slate to prevent the ingress of worms. Syringe the leaves each day and give the roots a liberal supply of liquid manure. When the flower-buds begin to show colour, discontinue the manure water. Thin out the flower-buds, leaving two or three only of the strongest on each stem. At the end of September they must be removed to a cool greenhouse to flower. Where there is no greenhouse a canvas structure may be erected to protect them from the cold. Good plants for the border may be raised from cuttings in March or April. These should be kept close in a frame until rooted, then gradually hardened off, and planted in rich soil. Syringing with soot-water twice a week until the flower-buds appear will darken the leaves and deepen the colour of the flowers.

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