GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The plants in these houses should receive particular attention that they
do not suffer from want of water or fresh potting; the water to be
given in the morning or forenoon, that the plants and houses may be dry
to prevent the ill effects arising from damps.
Camellias.--Look over them, and disbud where too many are set in a
cluster. Resurface the soil, and see that the drainage is efficient.
New Holland Plants.--Heaths and other such hardwooded plants that have
been placed out of doors will now do best in a cold pit or frame, where
they can be protected from heavy rains.
Pelargoniums.--When the shoots of the plants that have been cut down are
about an inch long, the old soil must be shaken away, the roots slightly
trimmed, and then repotted into small pots, &c., as advised early in
July. Some of the cuttings may now be fit for potting off; when potted,
to be placed in a pit or frame, kept close, and shaded until they have
made fresh roots, when they should be placed out in an open situation to
grow firm and stocky, pinching out the leading shoots; and to be placed
on coal ashes, slates, or boards, to prevent the admission of worms. Sow
the seed immediately it is gathered, and also that of Fuchsias, or of
any other perennial plant, if ripe before the middle of September.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
The stove plants of strong and early growth may be allowed a gradual
increase of ventilation and more sunlight. Plenty of moisture is still
essential for the general stock. Shading may now be dispensed with,
except during bright sunbursts. Careful attention to be given to the
Allamandas, Echites, Euphorbias, Luculias, Stephanotises, Dipladenias,
and other such valuable stove plants. The surface soil of large
specimens to be stirred, and weeds and moss removed.
Gesnera zebrina.--Shift them for winter flowering; they delight in a
mixture composed of equal parts of fibrous loam, heath soil, and leaf
mould. All plants after shifting do best when placed in a gentle bottom
heat; to be syringed occasionally, and shaded during bright sunshine.
Shift on all Orchids that now require it, and are making their growth.
Top dress others, if they require it. All that are growing freely in
pots or baskets, or on blocks, to be syringed with clear, tepid, soft
water in the afternoons of fine days, and to be shut up early.
Figs.--If any are growing against the back wall of a vinery, or other
such structure, it may be advisable to give them a good soaking of
water, and but very little, if any, after--as a dry atmosphere is
necessary to ripen the fruit.
Melons.--Continue to supply them with bottom heat. If they are growing
in pits or frames, keep the linings well topped up or renewed, to
produce a comfortable heat inside; for without it canker is apt to set
in and destroy the plants.
Mushrooms.--In making beds for these on shelves, or in boxes, as
recommended a fortnight ago, or on the floor, let the whole mass be made
very firm by well-beating it as it is put on in layers. It is advisable
when the spawn is put in to cover it with good, strong, fresh loam
at least from two to three inches thick, and to make it as firm as
possible. The Mushrooms will come stronger and of much better quality
than if partly-exhausted soil is used.
Pines.--If the winter fruit have finished blossoming, supply them
occasionally with clear liquid manure when they want water. The growth
of the crown to be checked, and all useless suckers, gills, &c., to
be removed. When a house or pit is devoted to late Pines alone, an
abundance of moisture should be supplied. Give abundance of air to the
young stock in dungpits, and increase the dryness of the atmosphere,
to induce maturity of growth and a hardy constitution against winter.
Shift, if not already done, succession plants into larger pots. Any
plants recently potted to be shaded during bright sunshine, sprinkled
overhead every afternoon, and the house closed early. The sprinkling
will be sufficient without watering at the root until the plants begin
Vineries.--Continue to secure a dry state of the atmosphere when the
ripe fruit is intended to hang for any length of time, using a little
fire heat when necessary to dispel damp. To ripen the fruit in late
vineries, it is frequently necessary to use fire heat, but more
especially when the external temperature ranges below 50 deg..
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