GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The plants occupying the beds in the conservatory to be arranged,
cleaned, and pruned. If the health or habit of a plant, or other
considerations, should render it desirable to prolong the season
of blooming, the pruning may be postponed for
a week or two longer.
Continue to pot Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Pelargoniums, and all other
such plants when they fill their pots with roots. To be then kept close
for some days until fresh root-action begins. Green fly to be kept down.
Verbenas.--Put them in heat, to get cuttings; as also Heliotropes, and
all other such plants, of which there is a scarcity, for bedding-out
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Increase the moisture and temperature gradually as the days lengthen.
Start old and young plants of Clerodendrons, Dipladenias, and
Stephanotis, in a sweet bottom heat. Rondeletias to be cut in, and
started in the same manner.
Shift all Orchids that are starting into growth. As a high temperature
causes a premature and unhealthy growth it is advisable to keep up a
healthy atmosphere of from 55 deg. to 65 deg., with an increase of a few
degrees in sunshiny weather, when a little air, if only for a very short
time, should be admitted; but be careful to avoid draughts at this early
period of the year. All growing plants to be watered at the roots only,
being careful not to allow any water to lodge in the axils of the leaves
to cause decay. To preserve the roots of some Orchids in a healthy state
it is necessary to grow them on blocks of wood; the blocks to be made
proportionate to the specimens they are intended to bear; and the heel
of the plant to be placed close to the end of the log, to give as much
space as possible for the plant to grow upon. The following thrive well
on blocks without moss:--Barkeria spectabilis, Leptotes bicolor,
Phalaenopsis amabilis, and Sophronitis cernua, the Brassavolas, the
Cattleyas, nearly all the dwarf Epidendrums, all the Laelias, and nearly
all the dwarf Maxillarias and Oncidiums, and all the Schombergias.
Cucumbers.--Attend to the thinning and stopping, and impregnate the
fruit blossom when open.
Figs.--Care to be taken that cold currents and sudden changes of air are
excluded from the trees. The roots to be well supplied with water, and
the trees to be occasionally syringed overhead.
Peaches.--When set, thin the fruit and shoots as required; to be done
gradually, a little at one time, to prevent any sudden and injurious
change in the system of the tree. A liberal supply of moisture to be
kept up, with a temperature ranging from 55 deg. to 65 deg. and 70 deg.
by sunheat. A drier atmosphere is advised for trees in bloom; the
bloom to be thinned if the trees are weak; and if shy setters, to be
artificially impregnated, using a camel-hair pencil for that purpose.
Pines.--Be watchful about the bottom heat, and lose no time in raising
the pots nearer to the surface if an approach to a burning temperature
is apprehended. To be thoroughly watered when they require it, and to be
syringed overhead in the morning and evening of every clear day unless
the plants are in bloom, or ripening their fruit. Any crowns, suckers,
or small plants not well established will do well in a pit or frame on a
bed of leaves, or well sweetened dung, where they will make a rapid and
vigorous growth during the summer.
Vines.--Attend to last week's instructions as to stopping all laterals,
&c., and thinning the bunches in good time; and tie up all the principal
shoulders with soft strands of matting. Never allow the head or hand
to touch the berries. Give them plenty of air-moisture during their
swelling season; to be discontinued when they begin to colour.
Shy-setting sorts--such as the Black Damascus, Cannon Hall Muscat,
&c.--will set better by thinning the blossom-buds before expansion,
by which a more regular and compact bunch will be produced. Late
Vines should be pruned and dressed; and if not frosty the lights to be
removed, which will retard their breaking, and benefit the trees.
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