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Good Plan For Walnut Orchard
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<1>.........(2).........<1>.........(2).........<1>
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(3)---------<1>---------(3)--30 ft--<1>--30 ft--(3)
Mr. Prince, of Yamhill county, has modified his views somewhat in regard
to the grafted and seedling trees. He thinks that possibly the permanent
orchard should be of the grafted variety, possibly on the Royal or
California hybrid of rapid growth. He proposes the above form of an
orchard. The principal grafted trees should be placed in square form 60
feet apart, represented by figures 3. In the center of these squares at
figures 2 he would either plant the same trees or some other seedling
variety which will bring the trees about 42 feet apart. Midway between
the main grafted trees he would plant other trees, or apple trees,
represented by figures 1 in the little squares. This would make trees
30 feet apart. At the end of 15 or 20 years, when the trees possibly
become crowded, he would remove the No. 1 trees. If this were an apple
tree, it would already have served its best days and no great loss would
be had by its removal. At the end of 25 or 30 years we would remove No.
2, if the trees became crowded, leaving a permanent orchard of trees 60
feet apart, 12 trees to the acre. This is an excellent arrangement, and
no doubt about the best that has yet been proposed for walnut culture in
Oregon.
It is best to plant in square form, a tree to the center of each square,
forty to sixty feet apart is the rule. Berries, small fruit, potatoes,
vetch, peas, beans, etc., can be grown between the trees while they are
young, leaving six or eight feet free to be cultivated each side of the
trees.
Many plant apples, peaches, prunes or cherries between walnut trees,
planning to cut them out when the latter are of such size as to need all
the space.
These crops between the rows produce an income during the eight years'
waiting for the walnuts to come into bearing. Each grower must decide
this point according to his situation, always avoiding grains and
grasses.
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