Transplanting Potting And Repotting





Directions have already been given for preparing the best soil for house

plants. This soil, sifted through a coarse screen--say a one-half inch

mesh--is just right for "pricking off" or transplanting the little

seedlings.



Use flats similar to those prepared for the seeds, but an inch deeper.

In the bottom put an inch of the rough material screened from sods and

manure. Give this a thorough watering; cover with an inch of the sifted

soil, and wet this down also. Then fill the box nearly level full of the

sifted soil, which should be neither dry nor moist enough to be sticky.

Take care also that this soil is not much--if any--colder than the

temperature in which the seedlings have been kept.



It is usually best to transplant the seedlings just as soon as they are

large enough to be handled, which is as soon as the second true leaf

appears. Nothing is gained by leaving them in the seed boxes longer, as

they soon begin to crowd and get lanky and are more likely to be

attacked by the damping off fungus than they are after being

transferred.



Find a table or bench of the right height upon which to work

comfortably. With a flat stick, or with a transplanting fork (which can

be had for fifteen cents) lift a bunch of the little plants out, dirt

and all, clear to the bottom of the box. Hold this clump in one hand and

with the other gently tear away the seedlings, one at a time, discarding

all crooked or weak ones. Never attempt to pull the seedlings from the

soil in the flat, as the little rootlets are very easily broken off.

They should come away almost intact, as shown facing page 48. Water the

seed flats the day previous to transplanting, so that the soil will be

in just the right condition, neither wet enough to make the roots

sticky, nor so dry as to crumble away.



Take the little seedling by the stem between the thumb and forefinger,

and with a small round pointed stick or dibber, or with the forefinger

of the other hand, make a hole deep enough to receive the roots and

about half the length--more if the seedlings are lanky--of the stem. As

the little plant is dropped into place, the tips of both thumbs and

forefingers, by one quick, firm movement, compress the earth firmly both

down on the roots and against the stem so that the plant sticks upright

and may not readily be pulled out. Of course there is a knack about it

which cannot be put into words--I could have pricked off a hundred

seedlings in the time I am spending in trying to describe the

operation--but a little practice will make one reasonably efficient at

it.



When the flat is completed, jar it slightly to level the surface and

give a watering, being careful, however, to bend down the plants as

little as possible. Set the plants on a level surface, and if the sun is

bright, shade with newspapers during the middle of the day for two or

three days.



From now on until ready for potting, keep at the required temperature,

as near as possible, and water thoroughly on bright mornings when

necessary, but only when the drying of the surface shows that the soil

needs it. Above all, give all the air possible, while maintaining the

necessary heat. The quality of the mature plants will depend more upon

this precaution than upon anything else in the way of care.



The little seedlings are sometimes put from the seed flat directly into

small pots. I strongly advise the method described above. The flats save

room and care, and the plants do much better for a few weeks than they

will in pots. Where room is scarce, it is well to transplant cuttings

into flats instead of potting them off. As soon, however, as either the

transplanted plants or cuttings begin to crowd in the flats, they must

be put into pots. How soon this will be depends largely, of course, upon

the amount of room they have been given. As many as a hundred are often

set in a flat 13x19 inches, but it is well to give them twice as much

space as that if room permits.





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