GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Ventilation is requisite in mild weather, as stagnant air is always
unfavourable, especially to the plants blooming in the conservatory.
Water sparingly, and damp the house as moderately as possible, as water
settling on the flowers will soon destroy them. When
the plants, bulbs,
or shrubs in the forcing-pit have developed their blossoms, let them be
removed to the conservatory, where they can be preserved much longer in
perfection. The plants to be looked over every morning, and every dead
or decaying leaf and flower to be removed.
Heaths.--Fire heat should only be given when mats or other such
coverings are not sufficient to exclude frost, as nothing so much
injures the constitution of the Cape Heaths as a close, damp atmosphere.
Air should be allowed to circulate freely amongst them at all
Pelargoniums.--The plants intended for specimens should be finally
shifted. Air to be admitted at all favourable opportunities, and a
slight increase of temperature given. To be kept near the glass, and
free from green fly. If they have made no winter growth they will now be
the better prepared to progress in a robust, healthy state.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Amaryllis.--Attend to the shifting of them as soon as they show signs
of growth. Let them be placed in the stove, and give a little water,
increasing it gradually as the leaves unfold.
Orchids.--If other departments of gardening are likely to occupy more
time than can be very well spared as spring operations accumulate very
fast, it is advisable to proceed with the potting of Orchids from this
time forward, beginning with those that are showing signs of growth.
Peat cut into from one to two-inch cubes, fresh sphagnum to be soaked in
boiling water, to destroy insects, and charcoal lumps, with an abundance
of crocks, are the materials to be used. Any plants that had become very
dry should be immersed in tepid water for an hour the day previous to
shifting. The climate of the countries and the localities from whence
the species come are the best guides to their successful cultivation;
as the treatment required for Oncidium Carthaginense would kill O.
bifolium, and Cattleya Forbesii will thrive where C. Skinneri will
die, and in like manner with many others.
Capsicum.--Sow seeds of the large sort in pans or pots, to be placed in
heat. When the seedlings are an inch or two high pot them singly into
small pots, and replace them in heat; to be afterwards shifted when
necessary until the end of May, when they may be planted out on a south
Cherries.--Plenty of air, atmospheric moisture, and a very moderate
temperature, are the requisites for them. If the buds are beginning to
swell, 45 deg. will be enough to maintain by fire heat, lowering the
temperature down to 40 deg. at night, with a moist atmosphere.
Cucumbers.--The plants in bearing to get a top dressing of fresh, rich
soil. Keep a sharp look out for the destruction of insects. When the
plants in the seed-bed have made one rough leaf pinch off the leading
shoot above it, so as to cause the plants to throw out two shoots from
the axil of the leaves. Cuttings put in and struck in the seed-bed will
come into bearing quicker than seedling plants.
Peaches.--If the weather is very dull and unfavourable for giving air
where the trees are in bloom, it is advisable to shake the trellis
towards noon for dispersing the pollen.
Pines.--Proceed with the routine as advised in last Calendar.
Strawberries.--Keep them close to the glass, and remember that they are
impatient of heat: let 45 deg. be about the maximum, with a very free
circulation of air. If they are plunged in a pit or dung-bed, let the
bottom heat be about 70 deg. maximum, with an atmospheric warmth of 55
deg. to 60 deg.. In such a situation they will want scarcely any water
until they begin to throw up their blossom-spikes.
Tomatoes.--Sow seed of the large. To be treated as advised for
Vines.--To be looked over carefully, and as soon as they are
sufficiently forward to distinguish the embryo fruit all useless shoots
to be removed--that is, all that do not show fruit, and are not required
for wood next season. It may also be necessary to take off some of the
shoots that show fruit where they are very thick. If two shoots grow
from one joint one of them should be removed.
Previous: Second Week
Next: Fourth Week
|ADD TO EBOOK