Indoor Gardening

Thrid Week

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. Ventilation is requisite in mild weather, as stagnant air is always unfavourable, especially to the plants blooming in the conservatory. Water sparingly, and damp the house as moderately as possible, as water settling on the flowers will soon destroy them. When

the plants, bulbs, or shrubs in the forcing-pit have developed their blossoms, let them be removed to the conservatory, where they can be preserved much longer in perfection. The plants to be looked over every morning, and every dead or decaying leaf and flower to be removed. Heaths.--Fire heat should only be given when mats or other such coverings are not sufficient to exclude frost, as nothing so much injures the constitution of the Cape Heaths as a close, damp atmosphere. Air should be allowed to circulate freely amongst them at all opportunities. Pelargoniums.--The plants intended for specimens should be finally shifted. Air to be admitted at all favourable opportunities, and a slight increase of temperature given. To be kept near the glass, and free from green fly. If they have made no winter growth they will now be the better prepared to progress in a robust, healthy state. STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. Amaryllis.--Attend to the shifting of them as soon as they show signs of growth. Let them be placed in the stove, and give a little water, increasing it gradually as the leaves unfold. Orchids.--If other departments of gardening are likely to occupy more time than can be very well spared as spring operations accumulate very fast, it is advisable to proceed with the potting of Orchids from this time forward, beginning with those that are showing signs of growth. Peat cut into from one to two-inch cubes, fresh sphagnum to be soaked in boiling water, to destroy insects, and charcoal lumps, with an abundance of crocks, are the materials to be used. Any plants that had become very dry should be immersed in tepid water for an hour the day previous to shifting. The climate of the countries and the localities from whence the species come are the best guides to their successful cultivation; as the treatment required for Oncidium Carthaginense would kill O. bifolium, and Cattleya Forbesii will thrive where C. Skinneri will die, and in like manner with many others. FORCING-HOUSES. Capsicum.--Sow seeds of the large sort in pans or pots, to be placed in heat. When the seedlings are an inch or two high pot them singly into small pots, and replace them in heat; to be afterwards shifted when necessary until the end of May, when they may be planted out on a south border. Cherries.--Plenty of air, atmospheric moisture, and a very moderate temperature, are the requisites for them. If the buds are beginning to swell, 45 deg. will be enough to maintain by fire heat, lowering the temperature down to 40 deg. at night, with a moist atmosphere. Cucumbers.--The plants in bearing to get a top dressing of fresh, rich soil. Keep a sharp look out for the destruction of insects. When the plants in the seed-bed have made one rough leaf pinch off the leading shoot above it, so as to cause the plants to throw out two shoots from the axil of the leaves. Cuttings put in and struck in the seed-bed will come into bearing quicker than seedling plants. Peaches.--If the weather is very dull and unfavourable for giving air where the trees are in bloom, it is advisable to shake the trellis towards noon for dispersing the pollen. Pines.--Proceed with the routine as advised in last Calendar. Strawberries.--Keep them close to the glass, and remember that they are impatient of heat: let 45 deg. be about the maximum, with a very free circulation of air. If they are plunged in a pit or dung-bed, let the bottom heat be about 70 deg. maximum, with an atmospheric warmth of 55 deg. to 60 deg.. In such a situation they will want scarcely any water until they begin to throw up their blossom-spikes. Tomatoes.--Sow seed of the large. To be treated as advised for Capsicums. Vines.--To be looked over carefully, and as soon as they are sufficiently forward to distinguish the embryo fruit all useless shoots to be removed--that is, all that do not show fruit, and are not required for wood next season. It may also be necessary to take off some of the shoots that show fruit where they are very thick. If two shoots grow from one joint one of them should be removed.

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