HOLLYHOCK
Althaea rosea. Hardy perennial
Generations of unnatural treatment had so debilitated the Hollyhock that
disease threatened to banish it from our gardens. Just at the critical
time it was discovered that the plant could be grown and satisfactorily
flowered from seed. Florists at once
turned their attention to the
production of seed worth growing, and with marked success. The best
strains may now be relied on to produce a large proportion of perfectly
formed double flowers, imposing in size, colour, and substance. The
seedlings also possess a constitution capable of withstanding the deadly
Puccinia malvacearum, and there is no longer a danger that this
stately plant will become merely one of the pleasures of memory.
In growing the Hollyhock it is necessary to remember that a large amount
of vegetable tissue has to be produced within a brief period, so that
the treatment throughout its career should be exceptionally liberal.
Some gardeners are successful in flowering Hollyhocks as annuals. Where
this course is adopted it is usual to sow in January in well-drained
pots or seed-pans filled with rich soil freely mixed with sand, covering
the seed with a slight dusting of fine earth. A temperature of 65 deg. or
70 deg. is necessary, and in about a fortnight the plants should attain a
height of one inch, when they will be ready for pricking off round the
edges of 4-1/2-inch pots, filled with a good porous compost. Put the
seedlings in so that the first leaves just touch the surface. At the
beginning of March transfer singly to thumb pots, and immediately the
roots take hold remove to pits or frames, where they can be exposed to
genial showers and be gradually hardened. Defer the planting out until
the weather is quite warm and settled.
The shrubbery border is the natural position for the Hollyhock, but the
regular occupants keep the soil poor, and for such a rapid-growing plant
as we are now considering there is obviously all the greater need for
deep digging and liberal manuring. If put out during dry weather,
complete the operation with a soaking of water, and repeat this twice a
week until rain falls. Give each plant a clear space of three or four
feet to afford easy access for staking and watering. By midsummer
offshoots will begin to push through the soil. The removal of these will
throw all the strength of the plant into one stem. To insure its safety
a strong stake will be required, which should be firmly driven into the
ground, and rise six or seven feet above it. In case of an accident at
any time to the central stem the hope of flowers for that year is gone,
and it is therefore worth some pains to prevent a mishap. The tying must
be done with judgment, and as the plants increase in size an occasional
inspection will save the stems from being cut. Several inches of
half-decayed cow-manure placed round the stems, with a saucer-like
hollow in the centre to retain water, will be helpful to the roots, and
if the flowers are intended for exhibition, the treatment can scarcely
be too generous.
It is, however, easy to grow and flower Hollyhocks without the aid of
artificial heat. On a south border in June prepare drills about two
inches deep and a foot apart. Place an inch of rich sifted soil in each
drill, and upon this sow the seed very thinly, covering it about a
quarter of an inch. If the weather be dry, give a gentle soaking of
water, and finish with a dusting of soot to prevent vermin from eating
the seedlings. Thin the plants to six inches apart, and they may remain
in the seed-rows until the end of September. Whether they are then
transplanted straight to blooming quarters, or put into a cold frame for
the winter, depends on soil and climate. In the southern counties, and
on light land, it will generally be safe to winter Hollyhocks in the
open, with merely a shelter of dry fern or litter. But in heavy loam or
clay the risk is too great, and the cold frame must be resorted to. In
this they will be secure, and can be ventilated as weather permits. As
the season advances give more air, until they are planted out in May.
Seed may also be sown in pans in July or August, the seedlings being
transferred in due course to pots for the winter. The protection of a
frame will suffice, provided that frost is kept away, and the plants may
be put out in spring as already advised.
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