HYACINTH
One of the most valuable characteristics of the Hyacinth is the ease
with which it can be flowered in a variety of ways by very simple modes
of treatment. It may be employed as a hardy, rough-weather plant for the
garden border, or
as a grand exhibition and conservatory flower. The
bulbs may be planted at any time from September to the middle of
December, with the certainty of their blooming well, if properly cared
for; but the prudent cultivator will plant them as early as possible in
the autumn, and so manage them afterwards as to secure the longest
period of growth previous to their flowering. They can be forced to
flower at Christmas, but the more slowly the flowers are developed the
finer in the end will they be. To obtain good bulbs is a matter of the
utmost importance, and it may be useful here to remark that the mere
size of a Hyacinth bulb is no criterion of its value--nor, indeed, is
its neatness of form or brightness of appearance. The two most important
qualities are soundness and density. If the bulbs are hard and heavy in
proportion to their size, they may be depended on to produce good
flowers of their kind. The bulbs of some sorts are never large or
handsome, while, on the other hand, many others partake of both these
qualities in a marked degree.
One other matter in general relating to the treatment of Hyacinths needs
to be referred to. Harm has often been done by the practice of massing
the flowers, whether in pot groups or in garden beds, without
consideration of colour harmonies. Yet no other bulbous flower offers
such a wide choice of delightful colours, or is so eminently adapted to
artistic blending, as the Hyacinth. By eschewing the dull blues and
allied shades and by bringing into association exquisite tones of mauve,
pink, apricot, salmon, pale yellow, rich lilac, bright red, &c., it is
easy to demonstrate that there are possibilities in Hyacinths which may
never have been suspected before. The following are a few of the
charming blends which may be made, and will especially appeal to those
who grow Hyacinths indoors: (i) Apricot, cream, and pale blue; (2)
cream, pale pink, and rose-pink; (3) bright pink and pale blue; (4)
bright red, rich blue, and pure white; (5) rose-pink and rich blue; (6)
pale yellow and rich blue; (7) deep mauve and pale mauve; (8) cream and
pale blue; (9) bright blue shades (dull, washy, and nondescript blue,
purple, and violet tints must be avoided); (10) blush pink and
rose-pink; (11) apricot and cream; (12) pale lavender, cream, and
apricot. These examples will show that charming effects can be secured
either with two or with three varieties. Colour-grouping may also be
carried out in the garden, but in this case great care must be exercised
to get varieties of clear, bright hues which flower at the same time,
such as Inimitable Bedding Hyacinths. Modern taste further dictates that
the bare soil shall be hidden, and this end is best served by providing
a groundwork of dwarf plants, such as Daisies, Forget-me-nots, double
white Arabis, and mauve Aubrietia. Another course is to mix Hyacinths
with Daffodils of the Chalice or Star section; there is no better
variety than Sir Watkin, but others may be used.
Culture in Pots.--It is not necessary to use large pots, or pots of a
peculiar shape, for Hyacinths. There is nothing better than common
flower-pots, and in those of 60-size single bulbs may be flowered in a
most satisfactory manner. The pots usually employed are the 48-and
32-sizes, the last-named being required only for selected bulbs grown
for exhibition. We advise the use of small pots where Hyacinths are
grown in pits and frames for decorative purposes, because they can be
conveniently placed in ornamental stands, or packed close together in
baskets of moss, when required for the embellishment of the
drawing-room. As the use of new pots for Hyacinths is often the cause of
failure, they should not be employed if well-cleansed old pots are
available. The tender roots of the bulbs frequently become too dry owing
to the absorbent nature of the new pots. A rich, light soil is
indispensable, and it should consist chiefly of turfy loam, with
leaf-mould and a liberal allowance of sharp sand. The mixture ought to
be in a moderately moist condition when ready for use. In small pots one
hollow crock must suffice, but the 48-and 32-sized pots can be prepared
in the usual way, with one large hollow crock, and a little heap of
smaller potsherds or nodules of charcoal over it. Fill the pots quite
full of soil, and then press the bulb into it, and press the soil round
the bulb to finish the operation. If potted loosely, they will not
thrive; if potted too firmly, they will rise up as soon as the roots
begin to grow, and be one-sided. In large pots the bulbs should be
nearly covered with soil, but in small pots they must be only half
covered, in order to afford them the largest possible amount of
root-room. When potted, a cool place must be found for them, and unless
they go absolutely dry, they should not have a drop of water until they
begin to grow freely and are in the enjoyment of full daylight. The pots
may be stored in a dark, cool pit, or any out-of-the-way place where
neither sun, nor frost, nor heavy rains will affect them; but it is
advisable to plunge them in coal-ashes and also to cover them with a few
inches of the ashes. As to their removal, they must be taken out as
wanted for forcing, and certainly before they push up their flower
spikes, as they will do if they remain too long in the bed. The
cultivator will be guided in respect of their removal from the bed by
circumstances; but when they are removed, a distinct routine of
treatment must be observed, or the flowering will be unsatisfactory. For
a short time they should be placed in subdued daylight, that the
blanched growth may acquire a healthy green hue slowly; and they need to
be kept cool in order that they shall grow very little until a healthy
colour is acquired. The floor of a cool greenhouse is a good place for
them when first taken out of the bed and cleaned up for forcing. Another
matter of great importance is to place them near the glass immediately
their green colour is established, and to grow them as slowly as the
requirements of the case will permit. If to be forced early, allow
plenty of time to train them to bear a great heat, taking from bed to
pit, and from pit to cool house, and deferring to the latest possible
moment placing them in the heat in which they are to flower. Those to
bloom at Christmas should be potted in September, those to follow may be
potted a month later. If a long succession is required, a sufficient
number should be potted every two or three weeks to the end of the year.
Those potted latest will, of course, flower in frames without the aid of
heat. In any and every case the highest temperature of the forcing-pit
should be 70 deg.; to go beyond that point will cause an attenuated growth
and poverty of colour. If liquid manure is employed at all, it should be
used constantly and extremely weak until the flowers begin to expand,
and then pure soft water only should be used. No matter what may be the
particular constitution of the liquid manure, it must be weak, or it
will do more harm than good. The spikes should be supported by wires or
neat sticks in ample time, and a constant watch kept to see that the
stems are not cut or bent, as they rapidly develop beyond the range
allowed them by their supports.
Culture in Glasses.--It is of little consequence whether rain, river,
or spring water be employed in this mode of culture, but it must be
pure, and in the glasses it should nearly but not quite touch the bulbs.
Store at once in a dark, cool place, to encourage the bulbs to send
their roots down into the water before the leaves begin to grow. When
the roots are developed, bring the glasses from the dark to the light,
in order that leaves and flowers may be in perfect health. Let them have
as much light as possible, with an equable temperature, and provide
supports in good time. Hyacinths are often injured by being kept in
rooms that are at times extremely cold and at others heated to excess.
Those who wish to grow the bulbs to perfection in glasses should remove
them occasionally as circumstances may require, to prevent the injury
that must otherwise result from rapid and extreme alternations of
temperature. It is not desirable to introduce to the water any
stimulating substance, but the glasses must be kept nearly full of water
by replenishing as it disappears. If the leaves become dusty, they may
be cleansed with a soft brush or a sponge dipped in water, but
particular care must be taken not to injure them in the process.
Culture in Moss-fibre.--While Hyacinths, differing from Daffodils and
Tulips, are perhaps relatively better in pots of soil than in bowls of
moss-fibre, they may still be grown successfully in bowls provided a
fairly deep receptacle is chosen and care is taken to avoid making the
fibre hard. With a shallow bowl and very firm fibre it may be found that
the roots strike upward and the plant does not get that abundant supply
of moisture which is essential to its welfare. For this method of
culture preference should be given to the Roman, Giant Italian,
Christmas Pink, Miniature and Grape Hyacinths, which look particularly
charming in bowls and similar contrivances. Detailed directions are
given on page 319.
Culture in Beds.--The Hyacinth will grow well in any ordinary garden
soil, but that which suits it best is a light rich loam. The bed should
be effectually drained, for though the plant loves moisture it cannot
thrive in a bog during the winter. It is advisable to plant early, and
to plant deep. If a rich effect is required, especially in beds near the
windows of a residence, the bulbs should be six inches apart, but at a
greater distance a good effect may be produced by planting nine inches
apart. The time of blooming may be to some extent influenced by the time
and manner of planting, but no strict rules can be given to suit
particular instances. Late planting and deep planting both tend to defer
the time of blooming, although there will not be a great difference in
any case, and as a rule the late bloom is to be preferred, because less
liable to injury from frost. The shallowest planting should insure a
depth of three inches of earth above the crown of the bulb, but they
will flower better, and only a few days later, if covered with full six
inches of earth over the crowns. The Hyacinth is so hardy that
protection need not be thought of, except in peculiar cases of unusual
exposure, or on the occurrence of an excessively low temperature when
they are growing freely. Under any circumstances, there is no protection
so effectual as dry litter, but a thin coat of half-rotten manure spread
over the bed is to be preferred in the event of danger being apprehended
at any time before the growth has fairly pushed through.
The bulbs may be taken up as soon as the leaves acquire a yellow colour,
so that the brilliant display of spring may be immediately followed by
another, equally brilliant perhaps, but in character altogether
different. When grown in beds, Hyacinths do not require water or sticks;
all they need is to be planted properly, and they will take care of
themselves.
Miniature Hyacinths.--These charming little sparkling gems are
invaluable for baskets, bowls and other contrivances which are adapted
for the choicest decorative purposes. In quality they are excellent, the
spikes being symmetrical, the flowers well formed, and the colours
brilliant. But they are true miniatures, growing about half the size of
the other kinds, and requiring less soil to root in. They will flower
well if planted in a mixture of moss-fibre and charcoal, kept constantly
moist, and covered with the greenest moss, to give to the ornament
containing them a finished appearance.
Feather and Grape Hyacinths will grow in any good garden soil, and are
admirably adapted for borders that are shaded by trees. They should be
planted in large clumps, and be allowed to remain several years
undisturbed. Both classes are beautiful--the Feather Hyacinth
emphatically so; indeed, numerous as beautiful flowers are, this, for
delicacy of structure, has peculiar claims to our admiration, when
presenting its feathery plumes a foot or more in length, all cut into
curling threads of the most elegant tenuity. Grape Hyacinths make a
charming ornament for the drawing-room when grown in bowls of
moss-fibre.
Roman Hyacinth.--This flower is particularly welcome in the short,
dark days of November, December, and January. For placing in glasses to
decorate the drawing-room or dinner-table the spikes of bloom are
largely grown; and the separate flowers, mounted on wire, form an
important feature in winter bouquets, for which purpose their delicious
perfume renders them especially valuable.
The bulbs can be grown with the utmost ease. Pot them immediately they
can be obtained in August or September, and stand them in some spare
corner in the open ground, where they can be covered with a few inches
of leaf-mould. This will encourage the roots to start before there is
any top growth. In October remove the covering, and transfer the pots to
a pit or frame, or they may be placed under the greenhouse stage for a
time, provided they will not be in the way of dripping water. A little
later, room should be found for them upon the stage, or the foliage may
become drawn. When the buds are visible, plunge the pots in a bottom
heat of 65 deg. or 70 deg., and in a week the flowers will be fit for use. Like
its more imposing prototype, the Roman Hyacinth may have its roots
gently freed from soil for packing in bowls or vases filled with wet
moss or sand; but they ought not to be subjected to a violent change of
temperature. If wanted in glasses, they can be grown in water after the
usual fashion, but the flower is scarcely adapted for this mode of
treatment. They will, however, grow well in bowls filled with
moss-fibre.
Italian Hyacinth.--Although rather later in flowering than the Roman
variety, the Italian Hyacinth deserves to be grown as a pot plant,
especially for its more lasting quality. The graceful flowers are
carried on long stout stems which are most effective for the decoration
of vases. The bulbs are perfectly hardy, and may be planted in clumps in
the open border, where they will bloom in April and afford abundant
sprays for cutting. The habit is less formal than that of the Dutch
Hyacinth and the flowers exhale a sweet delicate perfume. As previously
stated, the Italian Hyacinth is especially suitable for growing in
moss-fibre.
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