CHRYSANTHEMUM

Hardy perennial and hardy annual



The tedious method of propagating Begonias, Gloxinias, and Primulas by

cuttings or layers has been replaced by the simpler and more

satisfactory procedure of sowing seeds, which insures all the finest

flowers in far greater variety than were obtained under the obsolete

treatment. A similar revolution is now proceeding in the culture of

Chrysanthemums. Many growers are relying entirely on seedlings raised

from sowings early in the year for their autumn display. The culture of

C. indicum from seed is as simple as that of Primulas or Stocks, and

the variety and delicate charm of the seedlings far surpass the formal

plants of years ago. Gardeners who require large numbers for decorative

purposes may use seedling Chrysanthemums with excellent effect.



Seed should be sown in January or February, using a compost consisting

of two parts leaf-soil to one part of loam. Place the pots or pans in a

temperature of 65 deg. to 70 deg.. As soon as the seedlings appear they should

be moved to a somewhat lower temperature--about 55 deg. to 60 deg.. When the

young plants are large enough to handle, prick off into trays at about

three inches apart, using a little more loam in the soil. The most

convenient size for the purpose is fifteen inches long by nine inches

wide and three inches deep. These trays produce a quicker root action

than pots. After growth has started, place them in cold frames.

Immediately the plants have made five or six leaves transfer singly to

three-inch pots, and when nicely rooted they may be stopped once. About

June shift into six-inch pots, adding a small quantity of coarse silver

sand to the potting soil. Ten days later place them out of doors on a

bed of ashes. Towards the end of July transfer to 9-1/2 inch pots for

flowering, using soil of the composition already advised. Keep them

standing on ashes or boards, if possible at the north side of a hedge or

house. When thoroughly rooted a little manure water may be given once a

week. In October stand the plants in a cool house, and in the first week

of November move them to flowering quarters, keeping the temperature

from 55 deg. to 60 deg..



If required for blooming in the open, prick the seedlings off as soon as

they will bear handling, and in May have them planted out in final

positions, giving a little protection at first. They will yield a

profusion of bloom which will prove invaluable for decorative purposes

throughout the autumn months.



The Perennial Chrysanthemums include the well-known Marguerite, or

Ox-eye Daisy (C. leucanthemum), of which several new varieties have

been introduced in recent years. Not only have these flowers been

greatly improved in size and form, but there are now early-and

late-flowering varieties which will give a succession of bloom from May

until early autumn. The seed may be sown at any time from April to July

on a carefully prepared bed of light fertile soil, and when the

seedlings are large enough they should be transferred to permanent

quarters for flowering in the following year. In the perennial border

the plants make handsome specimens, and the long-stemmed flowers are

also invaluable for vase decoration when cut.



Several of the Annual Chrysanthemums make superb displays in borders,

especially when planted in large clumps, and they deserve to be grown

extensively in odd corners to furnish a supply of charming flowers for

bouquets and arrangement in vases. There is a considerable choice of

colours, which come quite true, and the plants may be treated in all

respects as hardy annuals. When grown in pots, the Star and Dunnettii

varieties make most attractive subjects for the decoration of the

greenhouse in winter and early spring. For this purpose seed should be

sown in August and September.