DAHLIA

Half-hardy perennial



Both the double and the single classes of Dahlia are increasingly grown

as annuals from seed, and this practice has the great advantage of being

economical in time and in the saving of space during winter. The

seedlings grow freely and quickly, and will flower quite as early as

those grown by the more lengthy and troublesome method from tubers. Even

those who possess a stock of named sorts may with advantage raise a

supply from seed, especially as there is a probability of securing some

charming novelty, which is in itself no small incentive.



Although the Dahlia is a tender plant, it is easily managed in a

greenhouse, or in a frame resting on a hot-bed. The seed may be sown as

early as January, but unless sufficient space is at command to keep the

plants stocky as they develop, it will be wise to wait until February. A

sowing in the month last named will produce plants forward enough to

bloom at the usual time. Even March will not be too late; but whatever

time may be chosen, when the start has been made it must be followed up

with diligence, so as to avoid giving any check from first to last. Sow

thinly in pots or pans filled with ordinary light rich compost, and

cover the seed with a mere sprinkling of fine earth. When the first pair

of leaves attain the height of an inch, pot off each plant singly close

up to the base of the leaves. It is not advisable to throw the weakly

seedlings away; these are the very plants which are most likely to

display new shades of colour and they are worth some additional trouble.

Although weak at the outset, they may, by judicious treatment, be

developed into a thriving and healthy condition.



When potted, place the plants in heat, giving a little extra care until

growth is fairly started. In due time shift into larger sizes as may be

necessary, and then it will be wise to consider whether there is space

to grow the whole stock well. If not, do not hesitate to sacrifice the

surplus, and in doing so reject the rankest-growing specimens, for these

are least likely to produce a fine display of bloom. It is mistaken

practice to take out the top shoot, as this checks the plant for no good

end; but when about six inches high, each one will need the support of a

stick. Give water freely, and air on all suitable occasions. The least

tendency to curled leaves indicates something amiss, and demands

immediate attention. A cold blast may have stricken the plants, or the

soil may be poor; lack of sufficient water will produce the mischief, or

it may arise from the presence of aphis. If the last-named assumption

prove correct, fumigate on the first quiet evening, and omit watering on

that day. The mere mention of the other points will be sufficient to

show the remedy for them.



As the time for transfer to the open air approaches, all that is

possible should be done to harden the plants for the change. They may be

placed for a few days under the shelter of a wall or hedge, but on the

least sign of frost be prepared to protect with hurdles or mats. Full

exposure during genial showers and fair weather is advisable, and an

occasional examination of the plants will prevent their rooting through

the pots into the soil.



The border for Dahlias can scarcely be made too rich, for they are

hungry and thirsty subjects, and will amply repay in a profusion of

bloom the manure that may be lavished upon them. Slugs and snails are

unfortunately too partial to newly planted Dahlias, but the vermin soon

cease to care about them; therefore it is advisable to plant Lettuces

plentifully at the same time, or previously, on the same ground, and to

dust around the Dahlias with lime. Insert at least one stake, about a

yard long, near each plant, to give support, and two or three others

will have to be given before the branches spread far. Secure the first

shoot when planting is completed, and follow up the tying as growth

demands.



Dahlias bloom continuously for a long time, and appear to be especially

at home in the shrubbery border, or in the centre of a bed. They are

also valuable for training against buildings having a southern aspect,

and here the flowering period is much prolonged, for an early frost will

scarcely reach them. A light wall is an admirable background for

deep-coloured varieties, and the white or yellow flowers are displayed

to advantage against a dark building. Dahlias may be used either alone

or in company with the climbing plants which are usual in such

positions.



The flowers possess a special value for indoor decoration, and any odd

corner of the garden can be utilised for producing a supply for this

purpose. Cutting should invariably be done in the early morning, while

yet the dew is upon them. They will then retain their beauty for a

longer period than those taken at a later hour from the same plants.

This remark is true of all flowers, but it applies with especial force

to the Dahlia.