First Week

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.



The shifting and repotting of all specimen plants in these houses have

been completed, I hope, before this time; but if not, the sooner they

are done the better. Keep up a moist atmosphere, sprinkling the plants

with tepid water twice or thrice a week; and pay attention to the

destruction of insects the moment you can perceive them.



Camellias.--As the plants go out of bloom, it is advisable to syringe

them freely, shutting up early with solar heat, and maintaining a kindly

humidity during the time they are making their growth.



Fuchsias.--Supply them liberally with water when in full growth, and

shade slightly during bright sunshine.



Heaths.--To be kept free from strong currents of dry air; rambling

growth to be stopped.



Liliums.--Give them a liberal supply of water, and a top dressing of

turfy peat, sand, and well-decomposed cowdung.



New Holland Plants.--Give such plants as young Boronias, Dillwynias,

Dracophyllums, Eriostemons, Leschenaultias, Pimeleas, Polygalas, &c.,

a tolerably-close corner of the house; stop the young growth as it may

require it; keep them clean, and repot them when necessary.



Pelargoniums.--Tie and stake the larger plants neatly, without loss of

time, and shift the smaller ones into larger pots. The roots will feed

greedily on oyster-shells, broken very fine at the bottom of the pot.

Put in cuttings for flowering in September and October.





STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.



Keep up a sweet, moist atmosphere with a regular circulation of air,

using an abundance of water about the floors; and syringe frequently air

plants and others suspended. Shut up a solar heat, if possible, of 80

deg. towards three or four o'clock.



Achimenes.--Shift them, and also Gesneras, and pot others for

succession.



Begonias.--When the flowers begin to decline, the plants may be

reduced, and potted into smaller pots, and be kept close for some time

afterwards. Put in cuttings of them, if not attended to before; and

also cuttings of Eranthemums, Euphorbias, Gesneras, Justicias,

Linums, &c.



Clerodendrons.--Give them plenty of room and encouragement to grow.



Orchids.--They should have a mild, but regularly moist, atmosphere for

a few weeks until they begin to grow; no water to be applied until that

period, and then with moderation.





FORCING-PIT.



Get in Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranthuses, and other such plants

from the dung-frame, that will be useful for the summer and autumn

decoration of the greenhouse and conservatory.





FORCING-HOUSE.



Cherries.--If all the petals have dropped, and the fruit is set, the

temperature may be raised to 60 deg. by day and 50 deg. by night, and

syringed in the evening three or four times during the week. A sharp

look out should be kept for curled leaves, and the grubs that nestle in

them destroyed.



Figs.--If the fruit is swelling off, supply the trees liberally with

water; stop the young shoots at the fourth or fifth eye. Temperature, 65

deg. by day and 55 deg. by night.



Melons.--The supply of air and water must be regulated by the state of

the weather and the temperature of the bed. The plants sometimes show

one or two fruit at an early period of their growth, which should be

picked off, as they would prevent the swelling off of others. The vines,

or shoots, after being frequently stopped, and when they have nearly

filled the frame, or other allotted space, several fruit should be

impregnated at one time. Sow for successional crop.



Peaches and Nectarines.--Pinch off laterals, and tie in the shoots as

they advance in growth. If green fly makes its appearance, fumigate the

house; but if only a few shoots are infested, dip them in tobacco water.

When the fruit in the early house are stoned, thin them to the number

you wish to retain, and use a pair of scissors, which is better than

pulling them off.



Pine Apples.--The plants should now be making rapid growth, and,

therefore, will require a liberal supply of water. Fruiting plants may

now be turned out of their pots into prepared beds, selecting those that

are not very forward. The fruiting-house may range from 80 deg. to 85

deg. during day, and from 65 deg. to 70 deg. at night. The successions

from 75 deg. to 80 deg. by day, and from 65 deg. to 70 deg. at night.



Strawberries.--When out of bloom, give them a liberal supply of water,

syringe freely, and keep down insects by fumigation.



Vines.--If forcing were begun early in December, whether with Vines

in pots or established vines, the colouring process will have now

commenced. When such is the case, admit air freely on all favourable

opportunities; but avoid draughts, or cutting winds, which frequently

cause rust and other imperfections in the bunches. In the later houses,

attend to thinning, tying, and stopping laterals. The last house to

be closed early in the afternoon. As the buds, in most cases, will be

considerably advanced, it is advisable to syringe frequently; to

apply plenty of moisture to the floors and paths; and to postpone the

application of fire-heat as long as possible.