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GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. As the great proportion of greenhouse plants are now commencing, or are in active growth, constant attention will be required for the judicious regulation of temperature,...

In-door Gardening For Every Week November 11, 2026 8 min read 3,399 views



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.



As the great proportion of greenhouse plants are now commencing, or are

in active growth, constant attention will be required for the judicious

regulation of temperature, and for the admission of fresh air during

fickle and ungenial weather, and in the supply of water to the roots,

and atmospheric moisture.



When settled fine spring weather has arrived, every plant which

inhabits a pot should be brought at once under review, and put in proper

condition for the growing season. No fear need then be apprehended from

potting. Keep up a moist atmosphere by sprinkling, &c., and admit plenty

of air, bearing in mind former directions as to draughts, &c. If the

plants in the borders, or any of the climbers, are dry, give them a good

soaking of weak, tepid manure water. Trellis climbers to be frequently

attended to--stopping, training, and arranging their shoots.



Balsams.--Encourage the growth of them and other such tender annuals by

potting them when the roots begin to cluster round the side of the pot.



Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Shift on the young stock, keeping the plants

well down in the pots, so as to bring the earth in the pots up to the

lowermost leaves, to induce the plants to throw out fresh rootlets from

the stem. Keep a sharp look out for green fly.



Climbers.--Prune off superfluous shoots; stop or pinch out the tops of

gross leaders, and keep them neatly tied and trained.



Cockscombs.--To remain in small pots until they begin to show flower.



Dahlias.--Pot off cuttings as soon as struck.



Fuchsias.--Continue to shift young plants into larger-sized pots,

according to their height and strength; to be kept growing by placing

them in a brisk, moist heat. Cuttings to be potted off as soon as they

are sufficiently rooted; to be placed in a temperature similar to that

in which they were struck.



Sow in heat seeds of stove and greenhouse plants.





STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.



Attend to regular shifting, watering, and a free and healthy circulation

of air, without draught, early in the morning to stove plants. Continue

to cut down, disroot, and repot, as advised last week, those which have

been flowering through the winter. To be then favoured with a bottom

heat of from 75 deg. to 80 deg., and slightly shaded during bright

sunshine.



Some of the young plants in the stove which are growing on for specimens

will probably require a second shift, see to them in time; and if

they are in good health treat them liberally by giving a large

shift, especially to plants of free growth. Give plenty of air at all

favourable opportunities, and saturate the atmosphere with moisture. The

surface of the tan to be stirred once or twice a-week, and sprinkle it

occasionally with manure water, to produce a moist, congenial atmosphere

about the plants. Shut up with plenty of sun heat. Look sharply after

mealy-bug and thrips.



Achimenes.--The plants established in small pots may be removed into the

flowering-pans, putting six plants into a pan.



Orchids.--Increase the temperature, and ply the syringe among them, as

they will now grow rapidly. Be careful not to throw too much water over

those sending out succulent flower-stalks, for they may damp off.

Ferret out and destroy cockroaches, woodlice, and snails. Calantha

veratifolia, Neottia picta, N. elata, Phaius of sorts, some

varieties of Stanhopea, Zygopetaltum Mackayii, and other such Orchids

that are now making their growth, would be benefited by an application

of clear, diluted manure water occasionally; a kindly humidity to

be kept up, and the shading to be in readiness for use during bright

mid-day sun.





PITS AND FRAMES.



Sow tender and half-hardy annuals; pot off those already up; give air

daily, and never allow the plants to flag for want of water. Pot

off cuttings of Dahlias, and continue the propagation of Fuchsias,

Heliotropes, Petunias, Verbenas, and bedding-plants generally.





FORCING-HOUSES.



Beans (French).--Give them, when in a bearing state, a liberal supply of

manure water, and see to keeping up a succession of them.



Cherries.--When you are sure that the fruit is finally stoned, the

temperature may be raised a few degrees; air and water overhead to be

liberally supplied.



Cucumbers.--As soon as the frames are uncovered in the morning give a

little air for an hour, to let the stagnant and foul air pass off, when

they may be closed again till the day is further advanced. As soon as

the principal shoots have reached the side of the frame, never allow any

of the laterals to grow more than two joints before being stopped. Stop

frequently, and thin liberally; where two fruit show at a joint pinch

one away.



Figs.--If red spider should be observed, wash the flues or the walls

exposed to the sun with lime and sulphur.



Melons.--Those lately planted out to be encouraged with a close, moist

heat, to get them into free growth as quickly as possible. The plants

that are fairly established to be kept cooler, admitting air at every

favourable opportunity, to produce short-jointed fruitful wood. The

shoots to be kept thin and regular, pinching out any that are not

wanted. The night temperature not to exceed 65 deg., and air to be

admitted as soon as the thermometer rises to 75 deg.; but to be given

very cautiously during cold winds. Prepare for raising plenty of young

plants for succession crops, and endeavour to have them strong and

vigorous by keeping them near the glass; to be provided, when they

require it, with plenty of pot-room. Keep up the heat in the beds

by renewing the linings; the coverings at night to be regulated in

accordance with the heat of the beds, taking care that the mats do not

hang over either the front or back of the frames.



Mushrooms.--Collect materials for fresh beds, and give those that have

been some time in bearing good soakings of manure water; sprinkle the

floor and heating apparatus occasionally. The conditions of success are

to have the materials for making the beds well prepared and sweet--that

is, free from rank steam, and the spawn to be put in whilst the heat

keeps regular and moderate, and the beds are coated over to keep it so

until the spawn is well established.



Peaches.--Remove all superfluous shoots, and tie in neatly those that

are left; thin the fruit that is swelling off before stoning, leaving

more than may be ultimately required, as, in stoning, it is liable to

drop off. Syringe the trees daily in fine weather. Where it is intended

to force Peaches, Cherries, &c., in pots next season, and some suitable

trees have to be provided, it should be no longer postponed. It is a

good plan to pot some maiden plants every year, to succeed any that may

become useless.



Pines.--Give plants swelling their fruit plenty of manure water, and a

humid atmosphere. The fruiting-house may range from 80 deg. to 85

deg. during the day, and as near 70 deg. as possible at night; the

succession-pits from 75 deg. to 80 deg. during day, and 60 deg. to 65

deg. at night. These particulars to be modified by the state of the

weather, whether sunny or dull.



Strawberries.--They require plenty of light and air to set their fruit,

when they may be removed without fear of injury to a stove, or any other

house or pit possessing a higher temperature. The plants swelling their

fruit require a liberal supply of water, and a sprinkling overhead

daily. When the fruit begins to change colour the sprinkling to be

dispensed with, and the supply of water at the roots to be given

sparingly.



Vines.--If the Grapes are colouring, a free circulation of air,

accompanied with a high temperature, will be advantageous. Attention

to be given, where fermenting materials have been used for warming the

borders, that the heat is not allowed to decline at present under the

influence of the March winds. Attend to last week's advice as to

tying, disbudding, &c., and proceed with the thinning the fruit in the

succession-house as soon as the berries are fairly set. When thinning be

as careful as possible of the bunches--neither pull them about with

the hand, by which rust on the berries is frequently produced, nor with

whatever the shoulders may be held up by at the time of thinning, as,

by the twisting of the stalks, shanking is not unfrequently produced.

Attention to be given in stopping all laterals, and breaking off all

useless shoots for the more free admission of light, which is most

beneficial in every stage of their growth. Look over houses where the

fruit is swelling, and see if any of the bunches would be improved by

tying up the shoulders. Any healthy Vines, but not of good kinds, should

be inarched before the wood gets too old.














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