Fourth Week

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.



The plants in these houses should receive particular attention that they

do not suffer from want of water or fresh potting; the water to be

given in the morning or forenoon, that the plants and houses may be dry

towards night, to prevent the ill effects arising from damps.



Camellias.--Look over them, and disbud where too many are set in a

cluster. Resurface the soil, and see that the drainage is efficient.



New Holland Plants.--Heaths and other such hardwooded plants that have

been placed out of doors will now do best in a cold pit or frame, where

they can be protected from heavy rains.



Pelargoniums.--When the shoots of the plants that have been cut down are

about an inch long, the old soil must be shaken away, the roots slightly

trimmed, and then repotted into small pots, &c., as advised early in

July. Some of the cuttings may now be fit for potting off; when potted,

to be placed in a pit or frame, kept close, and shaded until they have

made fresh roots, when they should be placed out in an open situation to

grow firm and stocky, pinching out the leading shoots; and to be placed

on coal ashes, slates, or boards, to prevent the admission of worms. Sow

the seed immediately it is gathered, and also that of Fuchsias, or of

any other perennial plant, if ripe before the middle of September.





STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.



The stove plants of strong and early growth may be allowed a gradual

increase of ventilation and more sunlight. Plenty of moisture is still

essential for the general stock. Shading may now be dispensed with,

except during bright sunbursts. Careful attention to be given to the

Allamandas, Echites, Euphorbias, Luculias, Stephanotises, Dipladenias,

and other such valuable stove plants. The surface soil of large

specimens to be stirred, and weeds and moss removed.



Gesnera zebrina.--Shift them for winter flowering; they delight in a

mixture composed of equal parts of fibrous loam, heath soil, and leaf

mould. All plants after shifting do best when placed in a gentle bottom

heat; to be syringed occasionally, and shaded during bright sunshine.



Shift on all Orchids that now require it, and are making their growth.

Top dress others, if they require it. All that are growing freely in

pots or baskets, or on blocks, to be syringed with clear, tepid, soft

water in the afternoons of fine days, and to be shut up early.





FORCING-HOUSES.



Figs.--If any are growing against the back wall of a vinery, or other

such structure, it may be advisable to give them a good soaking of

water, and but very little, if any, after--as a dry atmosphere is

necessary to ripen the fruit.



Melons.--Continue to supply them with bottom heat. If they are growing

in pits or frames, keep the linings well topped up or renewed, to

produce a comfortable heat inside; for without it canker is apt to set

in and destroy the plants.



Mushrooms.--In making beds for these on shelves, or in boxes, as

recommended a fortnight ago, or on the floor, let the whole mass be made

very firm by well-beating it as it is put on in layers. It is advisable

when the spawn is put in to cover it with good, strong, fresh loam

at least from two to three inches thick, and to make it as firm as

possible. The Mushrooms will come stronger and of much better quality

than if partly-exhausted soil is used.



Pines.--If the winter fruit have finished blossoming, supply them

occasionally with clear liquid manure when they want water. The growth

of the crown to be checked, and all useless suckers, gills, &c., to

be removed. When a house or pit is devoted to late Pines alone, an

abundance of moisture should be supplied. Give abundance of air to the

young stock in dungpits, and increase the dryness of the atmosphere,

to induce maturity of growth and a hardy constitution against winter.

Shift, if not already done, succession plants into larger pots. Any

plants recently potted to be shaded during bright sunshine, sprinkled

overhead every afternoon, and the house closed early. The sprinkling

will be sufficient without watering at the root until the plants begin

to grow.



Vineries.--Continue to secure a dry state of the atmosphere when the

ripe fruit is intended to hang for any length of time, using a little

fire heat when necessary to dispel damp. To ripen the fruit in late

vineries, it is frequently necessary to use fire heat, but more

especially when the external temperature ranges below 50 deg..