GARDEN PEA

Pisum sativum



Thanks to the skill and enterprise of enthusiastic specialists, we have

now the wrinkled as well as the round-seeded Peas for the earliest

supply of this favourite vegetable. Not only can we commence the season

with a dish possessing the true marrowfat flavour, but in the new

maincrop varieties dwarf robust growth is combined with free-bearing

qualities, while the size of both Peas and pods has been increased

without in the smallest degree sacrificing flavour. On the contrary,

there has been a distinct and welcome advance in all the special

characteristics which have won for this vegetable its popular position,

and so highly is the crop esteemed that it is usually regarded as a

criterion by which the general management of a garden is judged.



As an article of food Peas are the most nutritious of all vegetables,

rich in phosphates and alkalies, and the plant makes a heavy demand on

the soil, constituting what is termed an exhausting crop. For this

reason, and also because the time that elapses between sowing seed and

gathering the produce is very brief, it is imperative that the land

should be well prepared to enable the roots to ramify freely and rapidly

collect the food required by the plant.



Treatment of Soil.--The soil for Peas must be rich, deep, and friable,

and should contain a notable proportion of calcareous matter. Old

gardens need to be refreshed with a dressing of lime occasionally, or of

lime rubbish from destroyed buildings, to compensate for the consumption

of calcareous matters by the various crops. For early Peas, a warm dry

sandy soil is to be preferred; for late sorts, and especially for robust

and productive varieties, a strong loam or a well-tilled clay answers

admirably, and it is wise to select plots that were in the previous year

occupied with Celery and other crops for which the land was freely

manured and much knocked about. Heavy manuring is not needed for the

earliest Peas, unless the soil is very poor, but for the late supplies

it will always pay to trench the ground, and put a thick layer of rotten

manure at the depth of the first spit, in which the roots can find

abundant nutriment about the time when the pods are swelling. In all

cases it is advisable not to enrich in any special manner the top crust

for Peas. When the young plant finds the necessary supplies near at

hand, the roots do not run freely but are actually in danger of being

poisoned; but when the plant is fairly formed, and has entered upon the

fruiting stage, the roots may ramify in rich soil to advantage. Hence

the desirability of growing Peas in ground that was heavily manured and

frequently stirred in the previous year, and of putting a coat of rotten

manure between the two spits in trenching. As regards the last-named

operation, it should be remarked that as Peas require a somewhat fine

tilth, the top spit should be kept on the top where the second spit will

prove lumpy, pasty, or otherwise unkind. In this case bastard trenching

will be sufficient; but when the second spit may be brought up with

safety, it should be done for the sake of a fresh soil and a deep

friable bed. The use of wood ashes, well raked in immediately in advance

of sowing, will prove highly beneficial to the crop, for the Pea is a

potash-loving plant.



Method of Sowing.--It will always pay to sow in flat drills about six

inches wide, but the V-shaped drill in which the seedlings are generally

crowded injuriously is not satisfactory. Two inches apart each way is a

useful distance for the seed, although more space may be given for the

robust-growing maincrop and late varieties. It is wise policy, however,

to sow liberally in case of losses through climatic conditions, birds or

mice; and if necessary superfluous plants can always be withdrawn. The

depth for the seed may vary from two to three inches: the minimum for

heavy ground and the maximum for light land.



Early Crops (sown outdoors).--Early Peas are produced in many ways.

The simplest consists in sowing one or more of the quick-growing

round-seeded varieties in November, December, and January, on sloping

sheltered borders expressly prepared for the purpose, and provided with

reed hurdles to screen the plants from cutting winds. Where the assaults

of mice are to be apprehended, it is an excellent plan to soak the seed

in paraffin oil for twenty minutes, and then, having sown in drills only

one inch deep, heap over the drill three inches of fine sand. If this

cannot be done, sow in drills fully two inches deep, for shallow sowing

will not promote earliness, but it is likely to promote weakness of the

plant. It is not usual to grow any other crop with first-early Peas, but

the rows must be far enough apart to prevent them from shading one

another, and, if possible, let them run north and south, that they may

have an equable enjoyment of sunshine. As soon as the plant is fairly

out of the ground, dust carefully with soot, not enough to choke the

tender leaves, but just sufficient to render them unpalatable to vermin.

When they have made a growth of about three inches, put short brushwood

to support and shelter them, deferring the taller sticks until they are

required. Then fork the ground between, taking care not to go too near

to the plant. Sticks must be provided in good time, lest the plant

should be distressed, for not only do the sticks give needful support,

but they afford much shelter, as is the case with the small brushwood

supplied in the first instance.



On fairly warm soils the first opportunity should be taken to sow one of

the early dwarf marrowfat varieties in the open ground. This may be in

February or early March, but it will be useless to make the attempt

until the ground is in a suitable condition. Sow in flat drills as

already described, the distance from row to row depending upon future

plans. If no intercropping is to be done, eighteen inches between the

rows will generally suffice for dwarf-growing Peas, but many gardeners

prefer to allow three feet and to take a crop of Spinach on the

intervening space.



Early Crops (sown under glass.)--We now come to the modes of growing

early Peas by the aid of glass. The surest and simplest method is to

provide a sufficiency of grass turf cut from a short clean pasture or

common. There is in this case a risk of wireworm and black bot; but if

the turf is provided in good time and is laid up in the yard ready for

use, it will be searched by the small birds and pretty well cleansed of

the insect larvas that may have lurked in it when first removed. Lay the

turves out in a frame, grass side downwards, and give them a soaking

with water in which a very small quantity of salt has been dissolved.

This will cause the remaining bots and slugs to wriggle out, and by

means of a little patient labour they can be gathered and destroyed. In

January or February sow the seed rather thickly in lines along the

centre of each strip of turf, and cover with fine earth. By keeping the

frame closed a more regular sprouting of the seed will be insured; but

as soon as the plants rise, air must be given, and this part of the

business needs to be regulated in accordance with the weather. All now

depends on the cultivator, for, having a very large command of

conditions, it may be said that he is removed somewhat from the sport of

the elements, which wrecks many of our endeavours. There are now three

points to be kept in mind. In the first place, a short stout

slow-growing plant is wanted, for a tall lean fast-growing plant will at

the end of the story refuse to furnish the dish of Peas aimed at. Give

air and water judiciously, and protect from vermin and all other

enemies. A little dry lime or soot may be dusted over the plants

occasionally, but not sufficient to choke the leaves. All going well,

plant out in the month of March or April, on ground prepared for the

purpose, and laying the plant-bearing turves in strips, without any

disturbance whatever of the roots. Then earth them up with fine stuff

from between the rows, and put sticks to support and shelter them.



A more troublesome, but often a safer method, is to raise plants in

pots, or in boxes about four and a half inches deep and pierced at the

bottom to insure free drainage. Old potting soil will answer admirably,

and the seeds should be put in one inch deep and two inches apart. Place

the pots or boxes in any light cool structure as near the roof-glass as

possible, but make no attempt to force either germination or the growth

of the plants. When fair weather permits, transfer to the open in March

or April. A good succession may be obtained by sowing a first-early

dwarf variety and a second-early kind simultaneously.



Main crops require plenty of room, and that is really the chief point

in growing them. Supposing the ground has been well prepared as already

advised, the next matter of importance is the distance between the rows.

The market gardener is usually under some kind of compulsion to sow Peas

in solid pieces, just far enough apart for fair growth, and to leave

them to sprawl instead of being staked, because of the cost of the

proceeding. But the garden that supplies a household is not subject to

the severe conditions of competition, and Peas may be said to go to the

dinner table at retail and not at wholesale price. Moreover, high

quality is of importance, and here the domestic as distinguished from

the commercial gardener has an immense advantage, for well-grown 'Garden

Peas' surpass in beauty and flavour the best market samples procurable.

To produce these fine Peas there must be plenty of space allowed between

the rows, and it will be found good practice to grow Peas and early

Potatoes on the same plot, and to put short sticks to the Peas as soon

as they are forward enough. By this management the first top-growth of

the Potatoes may be saved from late May frosts, and the Peas will give

double the crop of a crowded plantation. The general sowings of Peas are

made from March to June, but as regards the precise time, seasons and

climates must be considered. Nothing is gained by sowing maincrop Peas

so early as to subject the plant to a conflict with frost. It should be

understood that the finest sorts of Peas are somewhat tender in

constitution, and the wrinkled sorts are more tender than the round.

Hence, in any case, the wrinkled seeds should be sown rather more

thickly than the round to allow for losses; but robust-habited Peas

should never be sown so thickly as the early sorts, for every plant

needs room to branch and spread, and gather sunshine by means of its

leaves for the ultimate production of superb Green Peas.



Late Crops.--To obtain Peas late in the season sowings may be made in

June and July, and preference should be given to quick-growing early

varieties. Ground from which early crops of Cauliflower, Carrot,

Cabbage, Potatoes, &c., have been removed is excellent for the purpose.

In dry weather thoroughly saturate the trench with water before sowing,

and keep the seedlings as cool as possible by screening them from the

sun.



Staking.--This important operation must not be unduly deferred, as the

plants are never wholly satisfactory when once the stems have become

bent. Commence by carefully earthing up the rows as soon as the plants

are about three inches high. In the case of early varieties, light bushy

sticks of the required height, thinly placed on both sides of the row,

will suffice. Maincrop and late Peas, however, should first be staked

with bushy twigs about eighteen inches high, these to be supplemented

with sticks at least one foot taller than the variety apparently needs,

as most Peas exceed their recognised height in the event of a wet

season. No attempt should be made to construct an impenetrable fence,

for Peas need abundance of light and air. Neither should the stakes be

arched at the top, but placed leaning outwards.



General Cultivation.--On the first appearance of the plant, a slight

dusting of lime or soot will render the rising buds distasteful to slugs

and sparrows, but this is more needful for the early than the later

crops. When maincrop Peas have grown two or three inches, they are

pretty safe against the small marauders. As the plant develops,

frequently stir the ground between the rows to keep down weeds and check

evaporation. The earthing up of the rows affords valuable protection to

the roots of the plants, and a light mulch of thoroughly decayed manure

will prove very helpful in a dry season. In the event of prolonged dry

weather, however, measures must be taken to supply water in good time

and in liberal quantity. The advantage of deep digging and manuring

between the two spits will now be discovered, for Peas thus

circumstanced will pass through the trial, even if not aided by water,

although much better with it; whereas similar sorts, in poor shallow

ground, will soon become hopelessly mildewed, and not even water will

save them. In giving water, it will be well to open a shallow trench,

distant about a foot from the rows on the shady side, and in this pour

the water so as to fill the trench; by this method water and labour will

be economised, and the plant will have the full benefit of the

operation.



The enemies Of Peas are fewer in number than might be expected in the

case of so nutritive a plant. Against the weevil, the moth, and the fly,

we are comparatively powerless, and perhaps the safest course is

occasionally to dust the plants with lime or soot, in which case the

work must be carefully done, or the leaf growth will be checked, to the

injury of the crop. Light dustings will suffice to render the plant

unpalatable without interfering with its health, but a heavy careless

hand will do more harm than all the insects by loading the leafage with

obnoxious matter. The great enemy of the Pea crop is the sparrow, whose

depredations begin with the appearance of the plant, and are renewed

from the moment when the pods contain something worth having. Other

small birds haunt the ground, but the sparrow is the leader of the gang.

Ordinary frighteners used in the ordinary way are of little use; the

best are lines, to which at intervals white feathers, or strips of white

paper, or pieces of bright tin are attached. In the seedling stage the

plants may be protected by wire guards, and even strands of black thread

tied to short stakes will prove serviceable. We have found the surest

way to guard the crop against feathered plunderers is to have work in

hand on the plot, so as to keep up a constant bustle, and this shows the

wisdom of putting the rows at such a distance as will allow the

formation of Celery trenches between them. We want a crop to come off,

and another to be put on while the Peas are in bearing; and early

Potatoes, to be followed by Celery, may be suggested as a rotation

suitable in many instances. Even then the birds will have a good time of

it in the morning, unless the workmen are on the ground early. However,

on this delicate point, the 'early bird' that carries a spade will have

an advantage, because the sparrow is really a late riser, and does not

begin business until other birds have had breakfast, and have finished

at least one musical performance.



Early Peas under Glass.--So greatly esteemed are Peas at table that in

many establishments the demand for them is not limited to supplies

obtainable from the open ground. Sowings may be made from mid-November

to mid-February, according to requirements and the extent of

accommodation available, from which the crops may be expected to mature

from mid-March onwards. Where a large glass-house, such as is used for

Tomatoes, &c., is at command, early Peas may be grown without prejudice

to other crops. Assuming that a good depth of soil exists, thoroughly

trench and prepare it as for outdoor Peas. Select a tall-growing

variety, of which there are a number that do well under glass. Sow in a

triple row, placing the seeds about three inches apart each way, and in

due course support the plants with stakes. A cool greenhouse or a frame

will also carry through an early crop of Peas, but for these structures

pots should be used and only dwarf-growing varieties sown. A ten-inch

pot will accommodate about eight seeds, and these should be planted one

and a half inches deep. When a few inches high insert a few bushy stakes

to carry the plants. A compost consisting of two parts loam, one part

leaf-soil or well-decayed manure, with a small quantity of wood ashes,

will suit Peas admirably. At no time is a forcing temperature needed.

From 50 deg. to 55 deg. at night, with a rise of about 10 deg. by day will suffice,

and free ventilation must be given whenever possible with safety. Apply

water carefully, but never allow the roots to become dust-dry.



Peas for Exhibition.--On the exhibition table handsome well-grown Peas

always elicit unstinted admiration, and the magnificent pods of the

newer varieties are certainly worthy of the utmost praise bestowed upon

them. In all cases where vegetables are grown for competition at Shows

the amount of success achieved depends largely on the intensity of the

cultivation adopted, and in this respect no other subject will respond

more readily to liberal treatment than will the Garden Pea. Deep

digging, generous manuring, and copious watering during dry weather, in

the manner already described, are fundamental essentials. Another matter

of no less importance is the selection of suitable varieties. It is now

the general custom to start the early sorts in pots or boxes under glass

(see page 104), and some growers treat mid-season Peas in the same

manner. Of this system it may be said that it offers the fullest

opportunity of giving attention to the young plants and allows of the

strongest specimens being selected for transfer to open quarters. The

number of sowings will, of course, depend on individual requirements. At

the time of transplanting give each plant plenty of space for

development, and it will be well to stake the rows immediately. Keep the

plants under constant observation, especially while quite young, when

they are liable to destruction by garden foes. The flowering should be

limited to the fourth spike, and from the time the pods appear

assistance must be given in the form of liquid manure or a mulching of

well-rotted dung. Remove all lateral shoots and promote vigorous healthy

growth at every stage. Some means should be adopted to prevent injury of

any kind to the pods, which when gathered should be well filled,

carrying a fine bloom free from blemish.