GLADIOLUS

The Gladiolus is adapted for many important uses and it associates

admirably with Dahlias, Hollyhocks, Pyrethrums, and Phloxes in the

furnishing of clumps on the lawn and in the mixed border. It is

perfectly in harmony with surroundings when planted in American beds or

in the shrubbery. For supplying cut flowers it is invaluable, as they

retain their freshness in a vase for many days, and a plentiful supply

should be grown in reserved spots expressly for this purpose.



Culture in Pots.--The early-flowering varieties are of especial value

for decorating greenhouses and conservatories during spring and early

summer. The corms of these Gladioli are small, and a 32-sized pot will

accommodate several. The soil should be decidedly rich, and it must be

porous, because water has to be given freely when the plants are in full

growth. Pot the corms in autumn, and cover with leaf-mould until the

roots are developed, when successive batches can be brought forward and

gently forced for a continuous supply of elegant flowers during April

and May. A mild temperature of about 55 deg. is quite sufficient for them.



Culture in the Open Ground.--The autumn-flowering Gladioli are grown

in the open ground, and preparations should begin well in advance of

planting time. Almost any soil can be made to answer, but that which

suits them best is a good medium, friable loam with a cool rich subsoil,

and each grower must decide for himself how far this is within reach

naturally, or can be secured by resources at command. Thus, a light soil

may be made suitable by placing a thick layer of rotten cow-manure a

foot below the surface, and a heavy, retentive loam can be reduced to

the proper state by the admixture of lighter material. On the surface

spread a liberal quantity of manure and dig it in, leaving the soil in a

rough state to be disintegrated by frosts. Before the planting time

arrives it is worth some trouble to free the ground from wire worms, or

they will play havoc with the growth just as it is appearing above

ground. Potatoes serve admirably as traps for these pests.



Gladioli are peculiarly liable to injury from wind, so that a sheltered,

but not a shaded, position should, if possible, be chosen for them. The

time of planting depends partly on the district, partly on the season;

but the soil must be in suitable condition and fine weather is

necessary. From the middle of March to the middle of April should afford

some suitable opportunity of getting the bulbs in satisfactorily. Give

the land a light forking, not deep enough to bring up the manure, and

make the surface level. The rows may be twelve or eighteen inches apart;

we prefer the greater distance, because of the convenience it affords in

attending to the plants when growing; nine inches is sufficient space in

the rows.



There are two methods of putting in the bulbs, each of which has

advocates among practised growers. One is to take out the soil with a

trowel to the depth of six or seven inches for each corm, then insert

about two inches of mixed sand and powdered charcoal or wood ashes; lay

the root upon it, and carefully cover with fine soil. If that process is

considered too tedious, draw a deep drill with a hoe, and at the bottom

put the light mixture already named; place the roots at regular

distances upon it, and lightly return the top soil. The operation should

be so performed as to leave the crown of the corm four inches below the

surface. When planting is completed, give the bed a finishing touch with

the rake.



An eminent grower strips off the outer coat or skin of each bulb before

planting to ascertain that there is no disease; and this cannot

otherwise be discovered. No doubt the procedure prevents the bed from

showing blanks, but that object can be more safely attained by growing a

reserve in pots. There is, however, another practice which possesses

very decided advantages, and it is to break the skin at the crown of the

bulb to allow the foliage free exit. The skin is so tough that it is

frequently the means of distorting the plant in its attempt to force an

opening.



The bed for a time needs little attention, except to keep it free from

weeds, and this is best done by hand. When the shoots reach about a foot

high, tying must be resorted to in earnest. The most effectual plan, of

course, is to put a separate stake to each plant, and for exhibition

specimens this is certainly advisable. But rows can be secured by a

stake at each end, with two or three strands of strong material carried

across, to which each flower must be tied. Whatever method is adopted,

care should be taken to avoid cutting the plant, while holding it secure

from damage in a high wind. Let the material which is placed round the

flowering-stem be soft and wide, such as list, which answers admirably.



Water must be freely and regularly given during dry weather, either in

the morning or in the evening; and a mulch of old manure spread over the

bed will prevent evaporation, and save the ground from caking hard.



Another important matter is shading. For ordinary purposes this is not

essential; but as it very much lengthens the duration of the flower, it

is worth attention on that ground alone, and for exhibition it is

indispensable. Whether shading is provided by separate protectors made

expressly for the purpose, or by home-made contrivances of canvas or

wood, the point to be quite certain about is security, or an accident

may wreck well-grounded hopes.



The lifting and storing of the corms affect the quality of the next

year's flowers so much that it is important to accomplish lifting at the

most suitable time, and the storing in the best manner. By the middle or

end of October, on some fine day, take up the roots, even if the foliage

be still green; tie a label to each variety, and hang them in some airy

place until they can be cleared of soil and leaves. Remove each stem

with a sharp knife, and lay out the bulbs to dry for another fortnight.

They can then be stored in paper bags or in boxes on any dry shelf which

is safe from vermin and frost.



An article on the culture of the Gladiolus from seed will be found on

page 267.