HOLLYHOCK

Althaea rosea. Hardy perennial



Generations of unnatural treatment had so debilitated the Hollyhock that

disease threatened to banish it from our gardens. Just at the critical

time it was discovered that the plant could be grown and satisfactorily

flowered from seed. Florists at once turned their attention to the

production of seed worth growing, and with marked success. The best

strains may now be relied on to produce a large proportion of perfectly

formed double flowers, imposing in size, colour, and substance. The

seedlings also possess a constitution capable of withstanding the deadly

Puccinia malvacearum, and there is no longer a danger that this

stately plant will become merely one of the pleasures of memory.



In growing the Hollyhock it is necessary to remember that a large amount

of vegetable tissue has to be produced within a brief period, so that

the treatment throughout its career should be exceptionally liberal.

Some gardeners are successful in flowering Hollyhocks as annuals. Where

this course is adopted it is usual to sow in January in well-drained

pots or seed-pans filled with rich soil freely mixed with sand, covering

the seed with a slight dusting of fine earth. A temperature of 65 deg. or

70 deg. is necessary, and in about a fortnight the plants should attain a

height of one inch, when they will be ready for pricking off round the

edges of 4-1/2-inch pots, filled with a good porous compost. Put the

seedlings in so that the first leaves just touch the surface. At the

beginning of March transfer singly to thumb pots, and immediately the

roots take hold remove to pits or frames, where they can be exposed to

genial showers and be gradually hardened. Defer the planting out until

the weather is quite warm and settled.



The shrubbery border is the natural position for the Hollyhock, but the

regular occupants keep the soil poor, and for such a rapid-growing plant

as we are now considering there is obviously all the greater need for

deep digging and liberal manuring. If put out during dry weather,

complete the operation with a soaking of water, and repeat this twice a

week until rain falls. Give each plant a clear space of three or four

feet to afford easy access for staking and watering. By midsummer

offshoots will begin to push through the soil. The removal of these will

throw all the strength of the plant into one stem. To insure its safety

a strong stake will be required, which should be firmly driven into the

ground, and rise six or seven feet above it. In case of an accident at

any time to the central stem the hope of flowers for that year is gone,

and it is therefore worth some pains to prevent a mishap. The tying must

be done with judgment, and as the plants increase in size an occasional

inspection will save the stems from being cut. Several inches of

half-decayed cow-manure placed round the stems, with a saucer-like

hollow in the centre to retain water, will be helpful to the roots, and

if the flowers are intended for exhibition, the treatment can scarcely

be too generous.



It is, however, easy to grow and flower Hollyhocks without the aid of

artificial heat. On a south border in June prepare drills about two

inches deep and a foot apart. Place an inch of rich sifted soil in each

drill, and upon this sow the seed very thinly, covering it about a

quarter of an inch. If the weather be dry, give a gentle soaking of

water, and finish with a dusting of soot to prevent vermin from eating

the seedlings. Thin the plants to six inches apart, and they may remain

in the seed-rows until the end of September. Whether they are then

transplanted straight to blooming quarters, or put into a cold frame for

the winter, depends on soil and climate. In the southern counties, and

on light land, it will generally be safe to winter Hollyhocks in the

open, with merely a shelter of dry fern or litter. But in heavy loam or

clay the risk is too great, and the cold frame must be resorted to. In

this they will be secure, and can be ventilated as weather permits. As

the season advances give more air, until they are planted out in May.

Seed may also be sown in pans in July or August, the seedlings being

transferred in due course to pots for the winter. The protection of a

frame will suffice, provided that frost is kept away, and the plants may

be put out in spring as already advised.