MAY

High-Pressure times continue, for the heat increases daily, and the

season of production is already shortened by two months. The most

pressing business is to repair all losses, for even now, if affairs have

gone wrong, it is possible to get up a stock of Winter Greens, and to

sow all the sorts of seeds that should have been sown in March and

April, with a reasonable chance of profitable results. It must not be

expected, however, that the most brisk and skilful can overtake those

who have been doing well from the first dawn of spring, and who have not

omitted to sow a single seed at the proper time from the day when

seed-sowing became requisite. The heat of the earth is now sufficient to

start many seeds into growth that are customarily sown in heat a month

or two earlier; and, therefore, those who cannot make hot-beds may grow

many choice things if they will be content to have them a week or two

later than their more fortunate neighbours. In sowing seeds of the more

tender subjects, such as Capsicums, Marrows, and Cucumbers, it will be

better to lose a few days, in order to make sure of the result desired,

rather than to be in undue haste and have the seed destroyed by heavy

rains, or the young plants nipped off by frost. Do not, therefore, sow

any of these seeds in the open ground until the weather is somewhat

settled and sunny, for if they meet with any serious check they will

scarcely recover during the whole of the season.



Asparagus in seed-beds to be thinned as soon as possible, so that

wherever two or three plants rise together, the number should be reduced

to one. But there is time yet for seedlings to appear. The bearing beds

are more attractive, for they show their toothsome tops. The cutting

must be done in a systematic manner, and if practicable always by the

same person. It is better to cut all the shoots as fast as they attain a

proper size, and sort them for use according to quality, rather than to

pick and choose the fat shoots and throw the whole plantation into

disorder. Green-topped Asparagus is in favour in this country; but those

who prefer it blanched have simply to earth it up sufficiently, and cut

below the surface, taking care to avoid injuring the young shoots which

have not pushed through. It is not for us to decide on any matter of

individual taste, but we will give a word of practical advice that may

be of value to many. It is not the custom to protect Asparagus in open

beds, but it should be; for the keen frosts that often occur when the

sticks are rising destroy a large number. This may be prevented by

covering with any kind of light, dry litter, which will not in the least

interfere with that full greening of the tops which English people

generally prefer, because the light and air will reach the plant; but

the edge of the frost will be blunted by the litter. If there is nothing

at hand for this purpose, let a man go round with the sickle and cut a

lot of long grass from the rough parts of the shrubbery, and put a light

handful over every crown in the bed. The sticks will rise with the

litter upon them like nightcaps, and will be plump and green and unhurt

by frost.



Bean, Dwarf French.--The main crops should be got in this month, and

successional sowings may be made until the early part of July. Dwarf

Beans are but seldom allowed as much space as they require, and the rows

therefore should be thinned early, for crowded plants never bear so

well as those that enjoy light and air on all sides. In Continental

cookery a good dish is made of the Beans shelled out when about half

ripe. These being served in rich gravy, are at once savoury and

wholesome. Almost all the varieties of the Dwarf and Climbing sections

may be used in this way, and the Beans should be gathered when full

grown, but not yet ripe. The self-coloured varieties are also grown for

use as dry Haricots, in which case the pods should not be removed until

perfectly ripe.



Bean, Climbing French.--Sow this month for the main crop, and onwards

until June according to requirements. In a general way the treatment

usual for Runners will answer well for outdoor crops of the Climbing

French Bean.



Bean, Runner.--In the open ground sowings may be made as soon as

conditions appear safe, but it is well to sow again at the end of the

month or in June.



Beet.--The main crop should be sown in the early part of the month.

Thin and weed the early sown, and if the ground has been suitably

prepared, it will be needless to give water to this crop. As Beet is not

wanted large, it is not advisable to sow any great breadth until the

beginning of May, or it is liable to become coarse.



Broccoli to be sown for succession. Plant out from frames and forward

seed-beds at every opportunity. About the middle of the month sow for

cutting in May and June of next year.



Brussels Sprouts.--For the sake of a few fine buttons in the first

dripping days of autumn, when Peas and Runners and Marrows are gone, put

out as soon as possible some of the most forward plants, giving them a

rich soil and sunny position.



Cabbage.--Plant out from seed-beds at every opportunity, choosing, if

possible, the advent of showery weather. Sow the smaller sorts and

Coleworts, especially in favoured districts where there is usually no

check to vegetation until the turn of the year.



Capsicum can be sown out of doors about the middle of the month, and

nice green pods for pickling may be secured in the autumn.



Carrot.--Thin the main crops early, and sow a few rows of Champion

Horn or Intermediate, for use in a small state during late summer, when

they make an elegant and delicate dish.



Cauliflowers must have water in dry weather; they are the most hungry

and thirsty plants in the garden, but pay well for good living. Plant

out from frames as fast as ready, for they do no good to stand crowded

and starving.



Celery trenches must be prepared in time, though, strange to say, this

task is generally deferred until the plants have really become weak

through overcrowding. In a small garden it is never advisable to have

Celery very forward, for the simple reason that trenches cannot be made

for it until Peas come off and other early crops are over. To insure

fine Celery the cultivator must be in advance of events rather than lag

behind them. Plenty of manure must be used; it is scarcely possible, in

fact, to employ too much, and liberality is not waste, because the

ground will be in capital condition for the next crop. There are many

modes of planting Celery, but the simplest is to make the trenches four

feet apart and a foot and a half wide, and put the plants six to nine

inches apart, according to the sorts. This work must be done neatly,

with an artistic finish. In planting take off suckers, and if any of the

leaves are blistered, pinch the blisters, and finish by dusting the

plantation with soot. As Celery loves moisture, give water freely in dry

weather.



Cucumbers of excellent quality may be grown on ridges or hills, should

the season be favourable. Suppose the cultivator to have the means of

obtaining plenty of manure, ridges, which are to run east and west, are

preferable to hills. The soil should be thrown out three feet wide and

two feet deep, and be laid up on the north side. Then put three feet of

hot manure in the trench, and cover with the soil that was taken out, so

as to form an easy slope to the south, and with a steep slope on the

north side carefully finished to prevent its crumbling down before the

season ends. The plants should be put out on the slope as soon as

possible after the ridges are made ready, under the protection of

hand-lights, until there is free growth and the weather has become quite

summery. It is a good plan to grow one or two rows of Runner Beans a

short distance from the ridge on the north side to give shelter, and in

case of bad weather after the plants are in bearing, pea-sticks or dry

litter laid about them lightly will help them through a critical time,

but stable manure must not be used. In case manure is not abundant, make

a few small hills in a sheltered, sunny spot, with whatever material is

available in the way of turf, rotten manure, or leaf-mould, taking care

that nothing injurious to vegetation is mixed with it. Put several

inches of a mixture of good loam and rotten manure on the hills, and

plant and protect as in the case of ridges. If plants are not at hand,

sow seeds; there will still be a chance of Cucumbers during July,

August, and September; for if they thrive at all, they are pretty brisk

in their movements. Three observations remain to be made on this

subject. In the first place, what are known as 'Ridge' Cucumbers only

should be grown in the open air; the large sorts grown in houses are

unfit. In the second place, the plants should only be pinched once, and

there is no occasion for the niggling business which gardeners call

'setting the bloom.' Provide for their roots a good bed, and then let

them grow as they please. In the third place, as encouragement, we feel

bound to say that, as Cucumbers are grown to be eaten as well as to be

looked at, those from ridges are less handsome than house Cucumbers, but

are quite equal to them in flavour.



Dandelion somewhat resembles the Endive, and is one of the earliest

and most wholesome additions to the salad-bowl. Sow now and again in

June, in drills one foot asunder, and thin out the plants to one foot

apart in the rows. These will be ready for use in the following winter

and spring.



Gourd and Pumpkin.--An early show of fruit necessitates raising seeds

under glass for planting on prepared beds, and the plants must be

protected by means of lights or any other arrangement that can be

improvised as a defence against late frosts. Of course the seeds can be

sown upon the actual bed, but it is a loss of time. The rapidity with

which the plants grow is a sufficient indication that generous feeding

and copious supplies of water in dry weather are imperative.



Lettuce.--Sow for succession where the plants are to remain, and plant

out the earlier sowings at every opportunity. To insure a quick growth,

and prevent the plants from running to seed, extra care in giving water

and shade will be necessary after transplanting. The larger Cabbage

Lettuces will prove useful if sown now.



Maize and Sugar Corn may be grown in this country as an ornament to

the garden, and also for the green cobs which are used as a vegetable.

Sow early in the month on rich light soil, and in a hot season,

especially when accompanied by moisture, there will be rapid growth. The

cobs to be gathered for cooking when of full size, but while quite

green.



Melon.--It is not too late to grow Melons in frames, provided a start

can be made with strong plants.



Pea.--Sow Peas again if there is any prospect of a break in the

supply. It is a good plan to prepare trenches as for Celery, but less

deep, and sow Peas in them, as the trenches can be quickly filled with

water in case of dry weather, and the vigorous growth will be proof

against mildew.



Savoy sown now will produce small useful hearts for winter use. By

many these small hearts will be preferred to large ones, as more

delicate, and therefore a sowing of Tom Thumb may be advised.



Spinach, New Zealand, can be sown in the open ground in the early part

of this month and should be thinned to about a yard apart. The growth

somewhat resembles that of the Ice Plant. The tender young tops are

pinched off for cooking, and they make an elegant Spinach, which is free

from bitterness, and is therefore acceptable to many persons who object

to the sooty flavour of ordinary Spinach.



Tomato.--By the third week in May the plants for the open border

should be hardened. In a cold pit or frame they may be gradually exposed

until the lights can be left off altogether, even at night. A thick

layer of ashes at the bottom of the frame will insure drainage and keep

off vermin. If the plants are allowed plenty of space, and are well

managed, they will possess dark, healthy foliage, needing no support

from sticks until they are in final quarters. Do not put them out before

the end of the month or the beginning of June, and choose a quiet day

for the work. If possible, give them a sunny spot under the shelter of a

wall having a southern or western aspect. On a stiff soil it is

advisable to plant on ridges, and not too deeply; for deep planting

encourages strong growth, and strong growth defers the production of

fruit. Tomatoes are sometimes grown in beds, and then it is necessary to

give them abundant room. For branched plants three feet between the

plants in the rows, and the rows four feet apart, will afford space for

tying and watering. Each plant should have the support of a stout stake

firmly fixed in the soil, and rising four feet above it; and once a week

at least the tying should be attended to. As to stopping, the centre

stem should be allowed to grow until the early flowers have set. It is

from these early flowers that outdoor Tomatoes can be successfully

ripened, and the removal of the main shoot delays their production. But

after fifteen or twenty fruits are visible the top of the leading stem

may be shortened to the length of the stake. The fruiting branches

should also be kept short beyond the fruit, and large leaves must be

shortened to allow free access of sunshine. Should the single-stem

system be adopted, three feet between the rows and two feet between

plants in the rows will suffice. On a light soil and in dry weather

weak liquid manure may, with advantage, be alternated with pure water,

but this practice must not be carried far enough to make the plants

gross, or ripening will be delayed. Fruit intended for exhibition must

be selected with judgment, and with this end in view four to six

specimens of any large variety will be sufficient for one plant to bring

to perfection.



Turnip to be sown for succession. It is well now to keep to the small

white early sorts.



Vegetable Marrow.--In cottage gardens luxuriant vines may every year

be seen trailing over the sides of heaps of decayed turf or manure. All

forward vegetables are prized, and Marrows are no exception to the rule.

An early supply from the open ground is most readily insured by raising

strong plants in pots and putting them on rich warm beds as early as the

season and district will permit. Late frosts must be guarded against by

some kind of protection, and slugs must be deterred from eating up the

plants.