NARCISSUS

Narcissi and Daffodils differ from Hyacinths, Tulips, and some other

bulbs in one particular which is important, because it furnishes the key

to the management of these flowers. The rootlets do not perish during

the season of rest, and this fact clearly indicates that the bulbs

should not remain out of ground for a day longer than is necessary.



Culture in Pots.--All the Polyanthus class, and almost all the Garden

varieties, thrive in pots, and can be forced with extreme ease. Pot them

early in any rich, porous compost, and put them into the soil a little

deeper than is usual for Hyacinths. For a few weeks keep them in a cool

spot in the open ground under a thick covering of ashes to promote

root-growth without prematurely starting the tops. With all bulbs this

is an important point, especially for such as are intended to be brought

forward in heat. When the pots are full of roots, leaf-growth will

commence, and the covering should be removed. A cool pit is then the

best place for them. The after-treatment will depend entirely on the

date the flowers are wanted. A low temperature, long continued, means

late flowering, so that within reasonable limits the grower can control

the time of their appearance. For the earliest display select the Roman

and Paper White, which are naturally early-blooming varieties. After a

few days in a cool pit, transfer to the greenhouse, and about a week or

ten days before they are needed in flower plunge them in a brisk bottom

heat, and give plenty of water of the proper temperature. The forcing

should not begin until the plants are sufficiently advanced, or it will

injure the flowers in both size and colour. Weak manure water will be

beneficial occasionally, but when the blossoms begin to open this must

be discontinued, and at the same time the heat should be diminished.



A succession of Narcissi for indoor decoration can be secured by

starting batches at intervals of two or three weeks; and by moderating

the treatment as the season advances, the last lot will flower naturally

without artificial stimulus. Large bulbs should be potted singly, but

several roots of the smaller sorts may be put into one pot. Heavy heads

of bloom will need support, and there is nothing neater than the wires

which are made expressly for the purpose.



Culture in Moss-fibre.--The lightsome charm of Narcissi and Daffodils

is never seen to greater advantage than when these are grown in bowls of

fibre for the decoration of rooms. Well-filled bowls of Daffodils are as

delightful indoors as are sturdy clumps nodding over grass or

Polyanthuses in the open air. The cultural routine is clean, pleasant,

and full of interest. The bowls are chosen with care, the fibre is well

saturated by repeated turning and moistening (this is essential to

success), enough crushed oyster shell is incorporated to make the

compost glisten brightly through and through, the mixture is pressed

into the bowl until it is firm without being hard, the bulbs are half

embedded, a few pieces of charcoal are pushed in here and there, the

bowls are put in a dark place for six weeks or so, and the rest is

merely to see that the fibre never gets dry.



Culture in Water.--For growing in glasses no other bulbous flower is

equal to the Narcissus. Darkness at the outset is not essential to it,

and therefore the gradual development of the roots may be observed from

the time they start; and contact with water will do no harm to the bulb.

The glasses should, however, be kept in a low and fairly uniform

temperature, to discourage the growth of foliage until the bulbs have

fully formed their roots. Pure rain water is desirable, but it is not

actually necessary; and for the sake of appearances, as well as on the

score of health, it should be changed immediately it ceases to be quite

transparent. Those who do not care to observe the growth in glasses, but

like to have the plants in water during the blooming period, may grow

the bulbs in pots in the usual way, and wash off the soil when wanted.

In this case the roots will not be quite so regular as those which have

been wholly grown in water. Perhaps we need scarcely say that it is

possible to utilise this flower in many other ways--such, for instance,

as in decorating epergnes, glass globes, and fancy vases. They may also

be made to float on a small fountain or aquarium; indeed, it is

surprising to what varied and effective purposes a little ingenuity will

adapt them.



Culture in Open Ground.--For this purpose the Narcissus will always

command attention for its graceful appearance; and this observation

applies with as much force to the Polyanthus section, when thus used, as

to the varieties which are specially recognised as Garden Narcissus. The

latter class includes many old favourites, among which is the Pheasant's

Eye--one of the most exquisite flowers grown in our gardens.



The Narcissus is often used for bedding with superb effect. The graceful

habit, which is one of its principal charms, is very striking in large

masses, and its elegant appearance in the positions for which it is

naturally suited cannot fail to arrest attention. Beneath trees, by the

side of a shady walk, in front of shrubberies, or in the mixed border,

the Narcissus is thoroughly at home.



If possible, choose a position where the bulbs need not be disturbed for

several years, and plant them early. When the spot they are to occupy

happens to be full, pot the bulbs until the ground is vacant, and in due

time turn them out. A southern or western aspect is desirable, but the

nature of the soil is comparatively unimportant, provided it is dry when

the bulbs are in their resting state. In sour land or in stagnant water

they will certainly rot, but a touch of sea spray will not injure them.

If the soil needs enriching, there is no better material than decayed

cow-manure, which may be incorporated as the work goes on, or it can be

applied as a top-dressing. Those which are evidently weak may be

assisted with a few doses of manure water, not too strong.



In planting groups, put the smaller bulbs four or five inches, and the

larger sorts from six to nine inches apart; depth, six to nine inches,

according to size. Where exposed to a strong wind, it may be necessary

to give the flowers some kind of support to save them from injury.



The Double and Single Daffodils are now in marked public favour and

their bright colours make them extremely useful for beds and borders.

For planting under and among trees they are invaluable, and a sufficient

number should always be put in to produce an immediate effect. They

thrive in damp, shady spots, and every three or four years it will be

necessary to divide and replant them.



The Chinese Sacred Lily (Narcissus Tazetta).--The popular name of

this flower is misleading. It is not a Lily, but a Narcissus of the

Polyanthus type, and, like others of the same class, the bulbs may be

successfully grown in soil or in water. But Narcissus Tazetta has

proved to be singularly beautiful in water, and the management of it

entails very little trouble. A wide bowl of Japanese pattern is

appropriate for the purpose, and to obtain the best effect the bowl

should be partially filled with a number of plain or ornamental stones,

with a few pieces of charcoal to keep the water sweet. On the top, and

so that they will be held by the stones, place one or more bulbs: pour

in water until it covers the base of the bulbs. Store in a dark cool

cellar until the roots have started and the leaves begin to appear; then

remove to the room where the ornament is wanted. Occasionally the water

must be replenished. The development of the flower-heads is surprisingly

rapid, and a large bulb generally produces several clusters of sweetly

scented flowers. But if the bulbs are forced too quickly the blossoms

are sometimes crippled.