POTATO

Solarium tuberosum



The potato has been designated the 'King of the Kitchen Garden,' and

perhaps 'the noble tuber' should be so regarded. Of its importance as an

article of food it is impossible to speak too highly, and the dietetic

value of the Potato appears to be always advancing. The known deficiency

of flesh-forming constituents naturally associates this vegetable with

meat of various kinds, poultry, game and fish, and in this proper

association the root is probably capable of superseding all other

vegetable foods, bread alone excepted. It is far from our intention to

recommend abstention from Asparagus, Cauliflower, Peas, and Sea Kale,

and to regard Potatoes as a sufficient substitute for these and other

table delicacies; but it is well to remember that by virtue of its

starchy compounds the Potato has a direct tendency to promote health and

that freshness of complexion that generally prevails among well-fed

people.



Forcing Potatoes.--The demand for new Potatoes exists long before the

first of the outdoor crops grown in this country can be lifted. To meet

such a demand is not a difficult matter where the necessary amount of

glass is at command, and by adopting the method here given supplies may

be maintained through the winter and onwards until the first-earlies

from the open ground are available. It may be said at once that for

culture in pots and boxes under glass a high temperature is neither

requisite nor desirable. Sturdy healthy growth is essential to the

formation of a crop of tubers, and if the plants be forced into an

attenuated condition the labour will have been in vain. Another matter

which needs to be specially mentioned is the choice of suitable

varieties. Only dwarf-growing kinds, thoroughly adapted for forcing,

should be considered. The date of planting will necessarily be regulated

by the time at which the crop is required. But a few weeks in advance of

planting, the sets should be sprouted by placing them on end in shallow

boxes, packed with damp light soil and stood near the light in a

slightly warm pit or house. When the sprouts are formed rub off all but

the two strongest. Good turfy loam, a small quantity of manure from a

spent Mushroom bed, and a little bone meal, will make an excellent

compost for the pots or boxes. Two sets will suffice for a ten-inch or

twelve-inch pot, or five tubers may be placed in a box measuring about

four feet long by one foot wide. Perfect drainage must be insured. Plant

the sets with care, taking up as much soil as possible with the mass of

fibrous roots which will have formed during the period of sprouting. The

operation may best be accomplished by only half filling the pots or

boxes at first, and when the sets are in position add a further two

inches or so of soil. Water sparingly, especially at the outset. As root

growth increases add more soil and give the plants an occasional

application of tepid liquid manure. At all times avoid excessive heat,

and if the crop can be finished off gradually in a cool house so much

the better.



Where sufficient accommodation cannot be found for forcing Potatoes in

pots or boxes, an excellent crop may be grown on a gentle hot-bed made

up in the usual manner, and covered to a depth of at least nine inches

with a compost of three parts light loamy soil to one part leaf-mould.

After putting on the frame, keep the lights closed for a few days. But a

great heat is not wanted, and undue forcing at any stage will lead to

disaster. Partially exhausted hot-beds which have been used for other

purposes will also be found to answer admirably. Prepare the sets in the

manner already advised for pots and boxes, and plant them with the least

possible disturbance to the fibrous roots, three inches deep, in rows

fifteen inches apart, allowing twelve inches between the tubers in the

row. Whenever the weather is fine afford the plants a little air.

Increase the amount gradually as growth develops, but close the frames

early in the afternoon and give them the protection of mats at night

should the outside temperature be low. Water must be given in

moderation. It should always be of the same temperature as the frame,

and as soon as the haulm commences to turn yellow watering must be

discontinued. Little earthing up is needed, but when the foliage is

about nine inches high the addition of a small quantity of warm soil

along the rows will be beneficial.



Early Potatoes outdoors are produced in various ways, and by very

simple appliances. The Potato will not bear the slightest touch of

frost. It is a sub-tropical plant, and will endure considerable heat if

at the same time it can enjoy light, air, and sufficient moisture. In

some respects it may be likened to the Lettuce, for if crowded or

overheated, or subjected to sudden checks, it bolts--in other words, it

produces plenty of top and no bottom, just as Lettuces similarly treated

produce flowering stems and no hearts. We will here propose a very

simple and practical procedure for obtaining a nice crop of Potatoes in

the month of June. This system fairly mastered, endless modifications

will be easily effected as circumstances and judgment may suggest.



Begin by selecting an early variety of the best quality. Some time

towards the end of January the sets are packed closely in shallow boxes,

one layer deep only, and these are placed in full daylight safe from

frost, but are not subjected to heat in any way. Having started the sets

into growth in full daylight, proceed with the preparation of the

ground. This must be light, warm, dry and rather rich without being

rank. If a length of wall is available, and perplexity arises concerning

suitable soil for the early Potatoes, seize all the sandy loam that has

been turned out of pots, and having mixed it with as much leaf-mould and

quite rotten manure as can be spared, lay the mixture in a ridge at the

foot of the wall. As walls do not anywhere run in such lengths as to

provide for all the early Potatoes that are wanted, select a plot of

ground lying warm and dry to the sun, and having spread over it a

liberal allowance of decayed manure, and any light fertilising stuff,

such as the red and black residue from the burning of hedge clippings,

turf, and weeds, dig this in. The ground being ready, it is lined out in

neat ridges two feet apart, running north and south. These ridges must

be shallow, rising not more than six inches above the general level. On

every fourth ridge sow early Peas that are not likely to grow more than

two and a half to three feet in height. This being done in February, the

land is ready for Potatoes in the first week of March. Plant on the fine

stuff laid up next the wall in the first instance, and then on the

ridges, where there is room for three rows of Potatoes between every two

rows of Peas. In the process of planting, it will be advisable to rub

off all the weak eyes and thin out those on the crown, two or three

strong eyes being quite sufficient. This can easily be accomplished as

the sets are laid into their places in a shallow drill opened on the top

of the ridge. The sets may be put a foot apart, and have four inches of

fine soil over them. Prick the ground over with a fork between the rows,

leaving it quite rough, but regular and workmanlike. The Peas will soon

be visible and require attention. Draw a little fine earth to them, and

stake them carefully with small brushwood. If snails and slugs appear,

give dustings of lime or soot, and as soon as possible supply stakes of

sufficient height and strength to carry the crop. By the time the

Potatoes begin to show their shaws the Peas will constitute an effectual

shelter for them against east winds, and it will be found that the

morning frosts that are often so injurious to Potatoes in the month of

May will scarcely touch a crop that has the advantage of this kind of

protection. But to that alone it is not wise to trust. One serious

freezing that blackens the shaws will delay and diminish the Potato

crop. Therefore, as the green tops appear, cover them lightly with fine

earth from between the rows, and if necessary repeat this, always

allowing the leaves to see daylight. When a sharp frost occurs, it will

be advisable to cover the tops with a few inches of light dry litter in

just the same way that a bed of Radishes is protected. There are many

other methods of saving the rising shaws. A plank on edge on the east

side of a row will suffice to tide through an ordinary white frost. Mats

or reed hurdles laid on a few stout pegs will also answer admirably, but

care must be taken that the plant is not pressed down, and the covering

must be removed as soon as the danger is over.



Crops grown under walls will be ready first, and those in the beds will

follow. Spaces between the trees of a fruit wall may be planted with

Potatoes, without injury to the trees. Those grown on the south face of

a good wall will be ready for table three weeks in advance of the

earliest crops in the open quarters. But east and west walls may be made

to contribute, and even north walls are useful, if planted a week later

and a little deeper. In all cases the sets should be put close to the

wall to enjoy the warmth, and dryness, and shelter it affords. When the

crop is lifted, the soil specially laid up for it may be taken away, or

scattered over the border. But the bulk will be so slight that it will

not matter much what becomes of it. However, in a new place with a clay

soil it may be prudent to remove it, and keep it ready as an aid in seed

sowing, for there are times and places where a little fine stuff is

worth a great deal to give a crop of some kind a proper start.



The main crop, as the source of supply for fully nine months out of

twelve, deserves every attention. Potatoes are grown with advantage on

so many diverse soils, and in such unlikely climates, that the plant

appears, on a casual consideration, to be altogether indifferent to its

surroundings. But it is none the less true that for the profitable

cultivation of this crop certain conditions are absolutely essential.

Among these an open situation and a well-drained soil are perhaps the

most important. To this might be added favourable weather, because a bad

season frustrates every hope and labour. Having an open situation and a

well-drained soil, it is much to be preferred that the soil be of a

deep, friable, loamy nature; in other words, a good medium soil,

suitable for deep tillage, but neither a decided clay, chalk nor sand. A

fertile sandy loam, lying well as regards sunshine and drainage, may

generally be considered a first-rate Potato soil, and excellent crops

have also been grown on thin soils overlying chalk and limestone. So

again, fine crops are often taken from poor sandy soils, and from

newly-broken bog and moss, as well as from clay lands that have had some

amount of tillage to form a friable top crust. But when all is said the

fact remains that the ideal soil for Potatoes is a deep mellow loam,

and, failing this, preference should be given to calcareous and sandy

soils rather than to clays or retentive soils of any kind.



Manures.--Much prejudice prevails against manuring land for Potatoes,

and where the soil is good enough to yield a paying crop, it will be

prudent to do without manure, and to dress generously for the next crop

to restore the land to a reasonable state. Still it is the practice of

many of the most successful growers for the early market to manure for

this crop, and in some instances the manure is laid in the trenches at

the time of planting. Generally speaking, land intended for Potatoes

should be deeply dug, and, if needful, manured in the autumn. About

twenty to thirty cartloads of half-rotten manure per acre may be dug or

ploughed in to as great a depth as possible, consistent with the nature

of the subsoil and the appliances at command. In breaking up pasture

with the spade, bastard trenching will as a rule prove advantageous. The

land is lined off in two-feet breadths, and the top spit of the first

piece is removed to the last piece, which will often be close at hand by

the rule of working a certain distance down and back again. The under

spit will then be well broken up, the manure thrown in, and the top spit

of the next piece will be turned in turf downwards, making a sandwich of

the manure. If this is done in autumn, there will be a mellow top crust

produced by the spring, and the best way to plant will be in trenches,

unless the land is very light, in which case the dibber may be used.



As light lands are often profitably devoted to Potato culture, and more

especially to the production of first-class early Potatoes for the

markets, a few words on their management may be useful here. If on the

light land there is a choice of aspects, by all means select the plots

that slope to the south-west; the dangerous aspects are north and east.

The ground should be ploughed up in autumn and left rough, but it is not

economical to manure light lands in autumn. At the time of planting, the

furrows should be cut with a plough fitted with a double mould-board,

and the manure spread evenly along them previous to laying in the sets.

A good dressing per acre will consist of fifteen loads of farmyard

manure, and four cwt. of artificials, consisting of one and a half cwt.

of guano, two cwt. of superphosphate of lime, and half a cwt. of muriate

of potash. When the sets are laid, cover them by splitting the ridges

with the plough. If planted early in March, the crop should come off in

time for Turnips, for which the land will be in good heart, and the seed

should be sown as quickly as possible after the clearing of the

Potatoes.



Preparing the Sets.--Among the many subjects that open out before us

at this point are the selection and preparation of the sets. Why are

smallish tubers chosen in one case and planted whole? and why, in

another case, are large tubers chosen and divided before planting, to

make two or more sets of each? Because there is a principle on which

sound practice rests, and it is this: the number of shoots starting from

any one growing point must be limited, for if they become crowded the

crop will be less than the land is capable of producing. Keeping this

principle in view, we proceed to remark, in the first place, that

carefully selected seed of moderate size may be planted as it comes from

the store without any preparation whatever, and with a fair prospect of

a profitable result. But certain varieties produce few tubers of seed

size, and when large they must be divided in such a manner as to insure

at least two eyes in each set. As a matter of fact, profitable crops are

grown in the most simple way; the seed is neither sprouted nor

disbudded, and with a well-made soil and a favourable season, the return

is ample, and all claims are satisfied. Potato-growing entails much

labour, therefore it is important to distinguish between tasks that are

necessary and those that are optional.



But where the time and strength can be found for first-class

cultivation, it should have the preference over the rough and ready

methods that are satisfactory on a large scale. Exhibitions of Potatoes

are for the most part sustained by persons who can find the time to do

things with extra care, and they have their reward in their crops as

well as in their prizes, for what may be styled Exhibition culture

consists simply in growing the crop in the best possible way, and

planting many sorts where in any other case a few would suffice. Here,

then, on the best plan, we begin with sets most carefully selected, to

insure true typical form and colour, and these are, some six weeks or so

before planting time, put in shallow boxes or baskets, one layer deep,

to sprout in full daylight, but quite safe from frost. In the first

instance a number of sprouts appear, and a large proportion are rubbed

off. The object of the cultivator is to secure two or three stout, short

shoots of a green or purple colour; the long white threads that are

often produced in the store being regarded as useless. When large sets

are employed, they are allowed to make three or four stout shoots, and

at the time of planting--not before--these sets are cut so as to leave

to each large piece only one or two good sprouts or sprits. As for the

smaller sets that are not to be divided, it is common practice to cut a

small piece off each of these at the time of planting to facilitate the

decay of the tuber when it has accomplished its work, for having

nourished the first growth the sooner it disappears the better. Thus,

with a little extra trouble, sound tubers have been prepared for

planting, and the main reasons for taking this extra trouble are

doubtless fully apparent. The best seed possible is wanted and the most

suitable soil; these two items forming the first chapter. By sprouting

the seed time is gained, which is equivalent to a lengthening of the

season. By limiting the number of shoots an excess of foliage is

prevented. Where the shoots are crowded the tubers will not be crowded,

a few strong shaws with all their leaves exposed to the air and light

being capable of producing better results than a large number contending

for air and light that are insufficient for them all. And finally, by

cutting the sets, whether to divide them, or simply to hasten their

decay, we insure that they will not reappear with the young crop as

useless, ugly things.



Distances for Planting.--The distance at which the sets are planted is

of importance, for a crop too crowded will be of little value. But the

ground must be properly filled. By wasting only a small space in each

breadth, or in the spaces between the sets, the total crop will be many

bushels short of the possible quantity. The guiding principle must be to

allow to each plant ample room to spread, and absorb the air and

sunshine, in accordance with the character of the sort and the condition

of the soil. A considerable proportion of the losses from disease may be

traced to overcrowding in the first instance; the tangled haulm being

rendered weak through want of air, and then becoming loaded with water,

and in contact with wet ground, the disease has made havoc where, had

the management been founded on sound principles, there might have been a

vigorous healthy growth. If a doubt arises, it is safer to allow too

much rather than too little space, and in this respect the exhibition

growers are very liberal. They often place the rows of strong-growing

varieties four feet or more apart, and allow a space of three and a half

feet for the more moderate growers. Even then, with good land, in a high

state of preparation, the shaws sometimes meet across the rows, and

enormous crops are lifted. For a very comprehensive rule, it may be said

that the distance between the rows may vary from fifteen inches for the

early sorts of dwarf growth, to forty inches for the vigorous-growing

late sorts. Between these measurements, for varieties producing medium

haulm, a distance of twenty-six to thirty-six inches may be allowed on

good ground. The distance between the sets must in like manner be

determined by the growth, and will range from nine inches for crops to

be dug early, to sixteen or twenty inches for the robust kinds. The

medium maincrop Potatoes will generally do well at twelve inches apart.

Much, however, depends on the season, for when great space is allowed,

and the season proves warm and showery, there will be more large tubers

than the grower will care for; whereas, if planted somewhat closer, the

crop would be smaller and more uniform in size. When planted, the tops

of the tubers should be about four inches below the surface.



Time of Planting.--Under favourable conditions, it is possible to

plant on a warm dry border as early as mid-February in very sheltered

districts, but a supply of protecting material must be instantly

available in the event of severe weather. As a rule, however, the

opening of March is soon enough to plant early crops out of doors,

always provided that the soil is light and the situation warm, but where

these conditions do not exist it will be safer to wait until the middle

of the month. Maincrops may be got in at the end of March and during

April, according to the locality and the character of the soil. In any

case, it is better to defer the operation for a week or so than to plant

in heavy wet ground which quickly consolidates, making it impervious to

air and unsuitable for root-penetration. Excellent crops may also be

obtained by planting in July, preference being given to quick-growing

early varieties. Old tubers only should be used and these must be

carefully stored until required for planting.



Method of Planting.--On light soils, in a sufficiently dry condition,

the dibber or planting stick may be used, but on heavy ground it is not

satisfactory. A good method of planting for all classes of soil is to

draw out a V-shaped drill of the requisite depth, place the sets into

position and lightly return the earth. Another plan which is largely

adopted is to insert the sets in the trenches as made during the

operation of digging the ground in spring, a garden line being used to

obtain the accurate alignment of the rows.



General Cultivation.--As soon as the shaws appear the ground should be

hoed between the rows, and if there is any fear of frost the shaws

should be lightly moulded over. As the growth advances the crop must be

earthed up, care being exercised not to earth up too much, for, taking

six inches as the best average depth, the crop will be diminished by an

increase beyond this depth. One urgent reason for early work between the

rows is that a prosperous crop will soon put a stop to it. The moment it

becomes likely that the shaws will be bruised by traffic between the

rows they must be left to finish their course in their own way, because

the formation of tubers below will be in the ratio of the healthy growth

above ground. The Potato may be said to be manufactured out of sunshine

and alkaline salts. The green leaves constitute the machinery of the

manufacture, for which the solar light from above, and the potash,

phosphate of lime, phosphate of magnesia, and phosphoric acid from below

are the raw materials.



Change of Ground and Seed.--In common with all other crops, the Potato

needs as often as possible a fresh soil, and a renewal of seed from some

distant source. The need for a change of soil is made apparent by an

analysis of the root, which contains large proportions of potash,

phosphorus, and sulphur, with smaller proportions of magnesia and lime,

without which the plant cannot prosper. A succession of heavy crops of

Potatoes on the same land may be said to take from the soil its

available potash and phosphates, and this crop will not, like some

others, take soda instead of potash when the last-named alkali runs

short. Here then is a chemical reason for change of soil. Another reason

is found in the history of the species of fungi that prey on the Potato

when its growth is checked by heavy rains and a low temperature. These

leave their spores in the soil, like wolves hiding in ambush, to

destroy the next crop. They are powerless to attack any other crop;

therefore a suitable rotation gives them time to die out and leave the

land clean as regards the Phytophthora and other parasites that

destroy Potato crops. The necessity for an occasional change of seed

rests on old experience, and should scarcely need enforcing. One word

may be said here by way of explanation, and it is this: the seed house

that aims to put a good article in the market adopts measures which

altogether differ from those followed by the majority of persons who

have not been trained to the business. It is a common experience to find

that those who save their own seed from year to year have as a result a

constantly declining strain, so that every year the growth is weaker,

less true, and less profitable. It is so all through, but is especially

the case with Potatoes. We do not say that all who save their own seed

act unwisely, for some are most expert in the business. But we do say

that seed saving is not learned in a day, and many who think they save

shillings when they save seeds, actually lose pounds by burdening

themselves with a bad article. The art of 'roguing'--the elimination of

plants which are untrue to type--is but one part of the seed-saving

process. There is the proper storing, the selecting and sorting

operations, to which eyes and hands must be trained, and there must be

no scruple about the sacrifice of false, immature or diseased samples.

The point we have in view is to advise the Potato grower to be sure of

his seed, and when a doubt arises as to the purity and healthiness of

the sample at command, it may be remembered that the seed merchant

practises methods of purgation for insuring perfectly true stocks, while

by growing in many different districts, and on diverse soils, he can

furnish an admirable change of seed for any description of land.



The Potato Disease.--The culture of Potatoes cannot be dismissed

without allusion to the destructive fungus which is never absent in dry

seasons, and in wet summers does its deadly work on a vast scale.

Scientific men have acquainted us with the history of the Potato fungus,

and this may eventually result in as efficient a remedy as that which

renewed the vineyards of France. Such a remedy for the Potato murrain

has yet to be discovered. Meanwhile, we must continue to resist the foe

with the plough, spade, draining tool, and above all with a wise

selection of sorts. It is an acknowledged fact that many Potatoes that

have been cultivated for a long time appear to have lost their vigour,

and are liable to succumb to the disease; but several kinds that have

been raised from seed in recent years possess a constitution which

almost defies the virulent assaults of the Phytophthora infestans.

Since the introduction of Sutton's Magnum Bonum Potato there has been a

disposition to believe in 'Disease-proof Potatoes.' There is no such

thing absolutely, and perhaps there never will be, any more than there

is a disease-proof wheat, or dog, or horse, or man. But some varieties

of Potatoes are known to be more susceptible to the ravages of disease

than others, and it has been one of our aims to secure seedlings which

combine the highest cropping and table qualities with the least tendency

to succumb in seasons when conditions favour the spread of the fungus.

Scientific men have not yet explained why the varieties differ in this

respect, but practical men have discovered that initial vigour of growth

is the main defence against the plague, and as the growing of a good

Potato costs no more than the growing of a poor variety, the cultivator

should bestow his care on the very best he can obtain. A little extra

cost for seed in the first instance is as nothing to the multiplied

chances of success a good variety carries with it. To sum up this

subject, then, we say that disease may be avoided in the early crops by

cultivating sorts which may be lifted before the plague generally

appears; and on soils which will not produce an early crop, only such

varieties should be grown for the main crops as have been proved to be

most capable of standing uninjured until late in the season. Let there

be a dry, warm bed, sufficient food, the fullest exposure to the

life-giving powers of light, and conditions favourable to early

ripening.



The Wart Disease (Black Scab) of Potatoes (Synchytrium endobioticum,

Percival) is dealt with in the chapter on 'The Fungus Pests of certain

Garden Plants.'





PUMPKIN--see GOURD, page 63