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Roses

It is much more difficult to grow good roses than to grow either chrysanthemums or carnations. They are more particular as to soil and as to temperature, and more quickly affected by insects and disea...

Gardening Indoors And Under Glass November 11, 2026 5 min read 3,621 views



It is much more difficult to grow good roses than to grow either

chrysanthemums or carnations. They are more particular as to soil and as

to temperature, and more quickly affected by insects and disease.



Nevertheless there is no reason why the amateur who is willing to be

painstaking should not succeed with the hardier varieties. Some roses

are much more easily grown than others. Plants may be grown from

cuttings of the ripened wood, which should have become too hard to

comply with the "snapping test" (see page 30) used for most other

plants. By far the best way for the beginner, however, is to buy from

the nurserymen or florist. This is especially true of the many sorts

which do better when grafted on a strong growing stock.



There are two ways of buying the plants: either in the dormant state, or

growing, out of pots. In the first way you get the dry roots and canes

(2-year olds) from the nursery as early as possible in the spring and

set them in nine-inch pots to plunge outdoors, or boxes, allowing 6 x 6

to 12 inches for room if you want them for use in the house in the

winter. Cut back one-half at time of planting, and after watering to

bring the soil to the right degree of moisture, go very light with it

until the plants begin active growth, when it is gradually increased. As

with chrysanthemums, as the plants get large, fertilizers and liquid

manure must be given to maintain the supply of plant food. Let the

plants stay out when cold weather comes, until the leaves have dropped

and then store until December or January in a cold dry place where they

will not be frozen too hard or exposed to repeated thawings--a trial

that few plants can survive. Bring into warmth as required.



The above treatment is for plants for the house. For the greenhouse

bench get plants that are growing. They should be clean and healthy, in

four-or five-inch pots. They are set 12 x 12 to 12 x 16 inches apart,

depending upon whether the variety is a very robust grower. The best

time for setting is April to July first, according to season in which it

is desired to get most bloom. As a rule early planting is the more

satisfactory.



One of the most important points in success with roses is to provide

thorough drainage. Even when raised beds are used, as will generally be

the case in small houses, wide cracks should be left every six inches or

so. If the house is low, room may be saved by making a "solid" bed

directly upon the ground, putting in seven or eight inches of prepared

soil on top of two or three inches of clinkers, small stone or gravel.



The preparation of the soil is also a matter of great importance. It

should be rather "heavy," that is, with considerably more clay than

average plant soil. Five parts rotted loam sod, to one to two parts

rotted cow manure, is a good mixture. It should be thoroughly composted

and rotted up. When filling the bench press well down and if possible

give time to settle before putting in the plants.



The plants should be set in firmly. Keep shaded and syringe daily in the

morning until well established. Great care must be taken to guard

against any sudden changes, so that it is best to give ventilation

gradually and keep a close watch of temperature, which should be kept

from fifty-five to fifty-eight at night in cold weather.



Care should be taken to water early in the morning, that the leaves may

dry off by night. At the same time it is well to keep the atmosphere as

moist as possible to prevent trouble from the red spider (see page 134)

which is perhaps the greatest enemy of the rose under glass.



As large growth is reached, liquid manure or extra food in the form of

dry fertilizer must be given, a good mixture for the latter being 1 lb.

of nitrate of soda, one of sulphate of potash and ten of fine bone. Wood

ashes sprinkled quite thick upon the soil and worked in are also good.



As the plants grow tall, they will have to be given support by tying

either to stakes or wires. It is well to pick off the first buds also,

so that mature growth may be made before they begin to flower heavily.



The plants should at all times be kept scrupulously clean.



The roses suited for growing in pots or boxes, to be dried off and

brought into heat in January or February, are the hybrid perpetuals, and

the newer ramblers, Crimson, Baby White and Baby Pink.



For growing in benches, as described, the teas are used. Among the best

of the standard sorts of these are Bride, Perle, Kaiserin Augusta

Victoria, Bridesmaid, Pres. Carnot, Meteor, Killarney. New sorts are

constantly being tried, and some of these are improvements over old

sorts. The catalogues give full description.



For growing at a low temperature, fifty-five degrees or so, the

following are good: Wootton, Papa Gontier, red; Perle, yellow;

Bridesmaid, large pink; Mad. Cousin, small pink; Bride, white. The above

will make a good collection for the beginner to try his or her hand

with.









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