Second Week

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.



The principal part of the greenhouse plants may now be removed to an

out-of-door situation, open to the morning sun, and protected from high

winds, and be placed on some hard bottom through which the worms cannot

get into the pots. The specimen plants that remain should be turned

round from time to time, that they may not get one-sided; and allow them

to have plenty of room on all sides. Also, the young plants intended for

specimens should have their flower-buds picked off, to encourage their

growth.



Balsams.--Encourage them by frequent shifts, and keep them in bottom

heat, and near the glass. The prematurely-formed flower-buds to be

picked off, as the plants should attain a considerable size before they

are allowed to bloom.



Calceolarias.--The most critical time is after the plants have flowered;

if allowed to produce seed, they generally die off--Nature having

completed her task. When the bloom begins to fall, cut the plants down,

and repot into a larger size; place them in a cold frame facing the

east, the lights on during the day, with air, and entirely off during

the night, unless in rainy weather, as the night dews are highly

beneficial. Treated thus the plants will soon produce new shoots, which

must be taken off and pricked out into small pots in a very open soil,

and placed in a very gentle bottom heat to strike. When rooted, to be

shifted into pots of a larger size.



Cinerarias.--The plants that have bloomed through the season to be cut

down, turned out of their pots, and to have at least half the old soil

removed from their roots. Prepare a piece of ground, in a sheltered

situation, with leaf mould or rotten dung and sand, in which the

Cinerarias are to be planted, one inch below the level of the soil, in

rows fifteen inches apart and one foot apart in the row. When planted,

to be well watered.



Climbers.--The Passifloras, Mandevilla suaveolens, Tecoma

jasminoides, and other such climbers in the conservatory, will now be

growing very freely, and will therefore require frequent attention to

keep them in order. The young shoots may be allowed to grow in a natural

manner, merely preventing them from getting too much entangled, or

growing into masses.



Fuchsias.--When in a healthy-growing state they require an abundance of

water and frequent syringings. Train them in the desired form, and pinch

back all weak and straggling shoots.



Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Examine them very carefully, and be sure

that they are in a proper state as to moisture. The young plants which

are not blooming will do best if placed in a pit where they can be

exposed or not, as may appear necessary. To lay a proper foundation for

a good specimen it is necessary to stop and to train the shoots into

form.



Kalosanthes.--Train them neatly, increase the supply of water, and give

them liquid manure occasionally.





STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.



Continue to shift the young and growing stock of stove plants. To harden

the wood of the early-grown plants, or autumn or winter flowering, it

is advisable to remove them to some cooler place, such as the shelves

of the greenhouse. The baskets, in which the Stanhopeas will now be

blooming, should be carefully examined to see that the buds, as they

protrude, may not be injured by contact with the side. Many stove plants

and Orchids in flower, if taken to a late vinery, or such intermediate

house, will thus be prepared, in a short time, for removal to the

conservatory during the summer.



Climbers.--When the shrubby plants are large, the climbers hanging

loosely give a sort of tropical character to the house; but, either

hanging, or trained in wreaths or festoons, they require pruning and

regulating, to prevent them becoming entangled, and, therefore, a

confused mass of wood and foliage.





FORCING-HOUSES.



Cherries.--Give air night and day in fine weather.



Figs.--When the ripest of the fruit is gathered, give the trees a good

syringing overhead, to cleanse and refresh the leaves, and to keep down

insects.



Melons.--To be slightly shaded with a net, or a few pea-sticks, during

bright sunshine in the middle of the day, to prevent the scorching of

the leaves; for if such occurs, the fruit ripens prematurely, and is, in

consequence, without flavour.



Peaches.--When the fruit is ripening, give as much air as possible

during the day, and when the nights are mild and warm leave the lights

open. When the fruit in the succession-house is stoned, give a good

watering to the roots, and syringe the trees frequently, as previously

advised.



Pines.--Apply an abundance of moisture to the pathways of the

fruiting-house during bright weather. Give plenty of air, but allow at

the same time the thermometer to range from 90 deg. to 95 deg.. Shut up

when the rays of the sun are getting partially off the house, and ply

the syringe freely about the leaves and stems of the plants, and

the surface of the plunging material. Air to be given an hour or two

afterwards for the night.



Vines.--Keep thinning the berries and stopping the laterals as they

advance, which, with syringing and giving air, is the principal work to

be done.