SEPTEMBER

Agapanthus taxes the soil severely, and must have ample nourishment in

pots. It is also one of the thirstiest bulbs known, but is quite hardy,

and will thrive in the open if planted in a deep rich loam at any time

from September until March.



Alstroemeria.--Although related to the Ixia, this bulb may be trusted

to the open ground in all but the coldest districts of the country. It

is not suitable for pot culture, but in a dry border it may be allowed

to remain undisturbed for years. Plant quite nine inches deep.



Amaryllis.--The proper time to commence operations with these superb

flowers is during their season of rest, which ranges from September to

March. Pot them in firm loam, enriched with leaf-mould, and containing a

fair proportion of sand. Very little water is required until growth

begins, and then it must be increased with the progress of the plant.

Start them by plunging the pots in a temperature of about 65 deg., and when

they are coming into bloom, remove to a warm greenhouse or conservatory.

After the flowers have faded, allow the plants to complete their growth,

and then slowly reduce them to a resting condition without permitting

the bulbs at any time to become quite dry.



Anemone.--The tuberous varieties are valuable as pot plants, not only

for their flowers, but also for the distinctive character of the

foliage. The roots may be potted from now up to the end of the year, so

that a succession of flowers can be easily insured. When plunged in a

pit or frame to preserve them from frost, watering is all the attention

they will need, but of this there must be plenty, particularly when the

plants begin to flower. Pot the roots between one and two inches deep,

in rich soil, and with the eyes upwards. A large pot will accommodate

several roots.



Babiana.--Treat in the same manner as the Ixia.



Begonia, Tuberous-rooted.--Lift the plants which are in the open

ground, and pot them to complete their season in the greenhouse; but if

they are not wanted for this purpose, they may remain in the beds until

October. When the stems fall, still retain the bulbs in their own pots,

and store them in a dry cellar or shed, under a layer of cocoa-nut

fibre. They need protection from both damp and cold. Neither hurry the

drying off of the roots, nor attempt to force the growth in spring, but

wait until they start naturally.



Calceolarias ought now to be in large 60-pots, placed close to the

glass to insure a dwarf habit. During sharp weather they may be taken

down, but should be restored immediately the danger is past. Much heat

in winter will be injurious; a range of 45 deg. to 55 deg. should be considered

the limits of variation in temperature. Pot the plants on as growth

demands.



Crocus.--For indoor decoration, two or three separate lots should be

potted at intervals of a fortnight; and the named varieties are worth

this mode of treatment, both for the size of their flowers and for the

exceptional brightness and diversity of their colours. Use a light rich

soil, and put six to eight corms in a 48-sized pot. They may also be

grown in quantity in large seed-pans or in shallow boxes. When coming

into flower, the roots may be freed from soil to facilitate the packing

into ornamental baskets or vases.



Crown Imperial.--This bulb requires a rich loamy soil and an open

position to bring it to perfection. Still, it will flower satisfactorily

in a shrubbery, or under the shade of trees; and, so far as the roots

are concerned, there is no occasion to divide them more than once in

three seasons. Plant during this month, and on to the beginning of

November.



Cyclamens in pots will pay for an occasional dose of weak manure

water. Shut the plants up in good time on chilly evenings. If a sowing

of seed was not made last month it should be put in without delay.



The hardy varieties, such as C. europoeum and C. Coum, are cultivated

out of doors; and in some of the warmer districts of the South of

England the Persian varieties can also be successfully grown in the

open. They are suitable for rockwork, or for little nooks and sheltered

corners, in which some gardens abound. For their success good drainage,

a warm position, and plenty of water in dry weather are essential.

September and October are the best months for planting out.



Dog's-tooth Violet.--For small beds, or in front of a rockery, these

compact and interesting little plants are valuable for spring flowering,

and are worth cultivating for their foliage alone. They also succeed in

pots, and thrive in peat, or in sandy loam and leaf-mould. A 48-sized

pot will accommodate five bulbs.



Freesia.--Towards the end of the month these bulbs will be ready for

removal to a cool greenhouse or cold pit. No heat is required--merely

protection from frost and excessive moisture. The stems are so slender

that support must be given early. As the plants do not bear re-potting,

the danger of exhausted soil can be met by administering weak manure

water occasionally.



Fritillarias belong to the same order as the Crown Imperial, and the

conditions which suit that plant will answer for all the Fritillarias.

The bulbs thrive in a deep loam, and they are quite hardy.



Gladiolus.--The potting of the early-flowering varieties should be

commenced this month and continued according to requirements. As the

corms of these Gladioli are small, several may be placed in a 32-sized

pot. No great amount of heat is wanted for these flowers, a temperature

of about 55 deg. being quite sufficient for them.



Gloxinia.--As the season of rest approaches, place the plants in any

airy position, and gradually reduce the supply of water until the

leaves fall off. The bulbs may be stored for the winter in peat or in

dry moss. The majority of growers, however, never store a bulb, but rely

entirely on seedlings raised annually.



Hyacinth.--To grow this flower successfully in glasses demands no

horticultural skill, for children often produce very creditable

specimens. It only requires the intelligent application of certain

well-understood principles. Like all other bulbs, the Hyacinth should

form its roots before top-growth begins. The flower is cultivated in

water for two reasons: the pleasure derived from seeing the entire

plant, and the decorative value insured by this mode of treating it. As

darkness retards top-growth, but does not delay the production of roots,

it is usual to place the glasses in a cool cellar; and if this happens

to be airy as well as cool and dark, there is no better place in which

to start the bulbs. Still, it must be admitted that darkness is not

essential for the development of roots. But darkness and coolness alike

tend to delay the growth of foliage until roots are formed. Therefore,

if the cultivator resolves to have the plants in view from the

commencement, he must place them in a low and uniform temperature. The

water should always be pure and bright, although it must not quite touch

the bulb, or the latter will rot. Wires to support the flowers are

necessary, and those which are manufactured expressly for the purpose

are both neat and effective. A rather low temperature, and free access

of pure air, should be regarded as necessary conditions of health in all

stages of growth. Hence it will be obvious that a mantelpiece, with its

fluctuations of heat and cold, is a most unsuitable position for the

glasses. We should like to add, that notwithstanding the high qualities

of the Hyacinth, it is quite a cottager's flower.



For pot culture the Hyacinth is a grand subject. Prepare the pots

carefully as to drainage, and fill them with a light, rich, porous

compost. Remove a little soil from the central surface, and into this

hollow lightly press the bulb, and press the soil somewhat firmly round

it, leaving about half the bulb visible. If too much power is employed,

the soil will be so compact that when the roots begin to grow, instead

of penetrating, they will lift the bulb out of its proper position.

There is always some risk of this, and it accounts for the practice of

heaping over the pots a considerable weight of ashes. Of course this

covering serves a second purpose in checking leaf-growth until the roots

are established. Any cool and safe position will answer for storing the

pots at this stage. For the earliest supply of flowers select single

varieties, as these naturally come into bloom somewhat in advance of

the doubles. When the tops begin to grow, remove the pots to a

greenhouse or frame, and subdue the light for a brief period until the

natural colour is gained. Thence transfer to the forcing-pit as

requirements demand; and they will need a week or ten days to prepare

them for use. It is easy to secure a continuous supply of Hyacinths from

Christmas onwards by forcing successive batches of roots until the final

display will come into flower without artificial assistance. To augment

the beauty of the flowers employ as little heat as may be necessary, and

defer the finishing temperature until the latest moment possible. For

general decorative purposes, small pots will be found extremely

convenient when a brilliant display is wanted in a limited compass; good

specimens can be grown in the 48-size, but for exhibition the 32-size

must be resorted to. Neither in pots nor in glasses should the bulbs be

allowed to send up leaves from between the outer scales; these rob the

central growth, and they should be carefully removed with a sharp knife.



Hyacinths, Italian and Roman, should be potted in successive batches

to provide a continuous supply. When the roots are formed the pots may

be removed to a pit or frame, and to the forcing temperature as the buds

show. If they have been brought on gradually, a very few days in a warm

pit or house will throw them into bloom. It is a source of astonishment

to us that these flowers are not more extensively grown in private

gardens. Immense numbers are annually consigned to the London markets,

and find a ready sale for bouquets and table decoration. Of course these

Hyacinths will not bear comparison with the splendid named varieties

which come later, but the Italian and Roman classes are ready at a time

when flowers are scarce and valuable. Like other bulbs of the same

class, they may be shaken out of their own pots and transferred to

ornamental contrivances.



Iris.--The tuberous varieties are all perfectly hardy, and may be

planted at any time from August to December. Put into light soil three

inches deep and nine inches apart they will give no trouble, except to

lift and divide them every second or third season.



Ixia.--Babianas, Ixias, and Sparaxis may all be treated in precisely

the same manner. In sheltered districts in the Southern counties they

can be grown in the open ground; but otherwise the culture must be in

pots under the shelter of a frame or greenhouse. A 48-sized pot will

hold four or five bulbs, and they will thrive in any soil which contains

a large proportion of sand. In spring they may be transferred to a

sandy border, or they can be kept in pots for a couple of years when

well managed.



Jonquil.--The treatment recommended for Narcissus will suit this

highly perfumed flower, both for forcing and in the open ground.



Narcissus.--It is undesirable to hold these bulbs in a dry condition

longer than is necessary, and those intended for pot culture should be

got in promptly. A low temperature must be relied on for keeping back

such as are intended to flower late. The Double Roman and the Paper

White naturally come into bloom in advance of other sorts, and these

should be selected for the earliest display. Give them a rich porous

soil, and pot them rather firmly, but not so firmly as to render it

impossible for the roots to penetrate, or the bulb will be raised above

the soil. Place them in a cool spot, covered with suitable material to

keep the bulbs in their places, and to prevent the foliage from starting

prematurely. When top-growth commences, the pots must go into some house

or frame where they can progress slowly until the moment arrives for

forcing them. If the buds just show, about a week in a bottom heat of

65 deg. will suffice to bring them to perfection. A succession can be

brought forward at intervals by the same means, until the final lot will

flower without artificial aid. And for the comfort of those who do not

possess heating apparatus, we may add that the flowers grown naturally

will probably be finer than those which have been forced.



Narcissus may also be grown in glasses in the manner recommended for

Hyacinths, or in bowls and other suitable receptacles filled with

moss-fibre.



In the open ground Narcissus should be planted in quantity, especially

in spots where it appears to be naturally at home, and one of the most

charming effects is obtained by putting them in the rough grass

adjoining shrubbery borders. Instead of cutting the grass, it must be

allowed to throw up flower-heads, and this affords the bulbs time to

mature in readiness for the following season. The many forms of Double

and Single Daffodil are effective border flowers, and the numerous

varieties of Narcissus should be grown in clumps and patches in every

spot which is suitable and vacant. In the reserve border of many gardens

large numbers of Pheasant's Eye and other Narcissus are planted to

supply flowers for cutting. They are peculiarly valuable for the

purpose, and if cut when scarcely ready they will develop in water, and

last for many days. In planting, be guided as to distance by the size of

the bulb, allowing four or five inches between small sorts, and six to

nine inches for large varieties; depth, six to nine inches.



Oxalis.--Except in a few sheltered districts, it will be necessary to

cultivate this exceedingly pretty flower in frames, or in a sunny, airy

greenhouse. It may also be forced in the stove with success. Put several

bulbs in a pot, and give them a light soil with plenty of sand in it.



Snowdrop.--It does not improve the roots of this exquisite little

favourite to keep them out of the ground, and they should, if possible,

be planted early.



Sparaxis needs the same treatment as advised for the Ixia.



Sweet Pea.--Exhibitors of Sweet Peas and those who endeavour to secure

the finest sprays for decorative purposes, commence the preparation of

the ground during the present month and incur whatever expense may be

necessary to insure a deep bed of rich friable loam in which the roots

can ramify freely. It is also the practice to sow seeds about the middle

of September in order to provide sturdy well-rooted plants in readiness

for transfer to the prepared plots in early spring. Either pots or boxes

may be used, and a frame is sufficient to bring the seedlings safely

through the winter. The method is dealt with in detail on page 305.



From mid-September to the end of October, according to the locality, is

an excellent time for sowing Sweet Peas outdoors where the soil is light

and the situation fairly warm. Plants from autumn-sown seed are

generally more robust and produce finer flowers than those raised from

seed sown in the open in spring.



Tropaeolum tuberosum.--In potting the tuberous varieties, insure

efficient drainage, and use a compost of rich light loam mixed with

sand. The foliage will trail over the sides of wire baskets with

graceful effect, but it may be trained around balloon-shaped wires

specially made for these flowers. The bulbs remain dormant all through

the winter, and may be started at any time from September to March.



Tulip.--The early class of Tulips is of great value for forcing

because of their brilliant colours and elegant forms. They take kindly

to a high temperature, but forcing should not be commenced too early,

nor should the heat be allowed to exceed 65 deg. at the finish. Plunging is

the most satisfactory method. Several bulbs may be put into one pot, but

it is more convenient to grow them singly, so that flowers in exactly

the same stage of development may be selected for use at one time. A

continuous supply may be secured by potting batches at short intervals.

When in bloom the roots can be washed free from soil for placing in

vases. Decayed turf, with decomposed cow-manure and a proportion of

sand, make an excellent potting soil for Tulips, and it will be all the

more suitable if laid up in a heap for twelve months after being mixed.