Thrid Week

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.



If any of the stove plants, as lately recommended, have been brought

into the conservatory, they will require a free admission of air at

every favourable opportunity to keep the atmosphere of the house dry.

The plants must be kept clear of decaying leaves and flowers. Some

judgment is also required in watering recently repotted plants, that

they may not be injured by saturation in cloudy weather, nor by drought

in hot sunny days.



The growth of twiners should be carefully regulated, allowing them

sufficient freedom to develope their natural habits as far as other

considerations will permit.



Continue to shift the hardwooded plants as they require it. A turfy

compost of three-parts sandy heath soil of a fibrous and rather lumpy

character, and one-part loam, will suit the majority. Particular

attention should be paid to the drainage, more especially to the crock

at the bottom; for if that is flat, and not hollow, it matters but

little how much depth of drainage material rests upon it, the soil will

soon become saturated and sour. Remember that the final shift should be

given in good time to those intended to flower in the autumn.



Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Sow seeds; the compost to be equal parts of

peat or leaf mould, loam, and rotten dung, with a small portion of sand.

Place a layer of broken crocks two inches thick at the bottom of the

pot; then fill up within half an inch of the rim with the compost,

passed through a fine seive. After the pot has been gently struck on the

potting-bench to settle the soil, the surface must then be made level

with a flat piece of wood, or the bottom of a small garden pan or

saucer. Sprinkle the seeds regularly over the surface, do not cover with

soil, and water with a fine rose; then to be placed in a cold frame, and

be kept shaded from the sun.



Chorozema.--The beauty of this genus for early spring display is

generally appreciated, and, therefore, requires no commendation from

me. They delight, like most other New Holland plants, in sandy peat

containing plenty of fibre, and require plenty of air at all times, and

also to be kept constantly moist, but never very wet. A large pot and

frequent stopping will soon produce a fine specimen.



Chrysanthemums.--Continue to top the plants that have been planted out

in the open ground.



Epacris.--The varieties of this genus are most useful for the adornment

of the conservatory in early spring. They delight in fibrous peat,

broken rough, mixed with fine white sand. The young plants to be

frequently stopped by pinching off the points of the shoots while

growing, to induce them to throw out laterals; those again to be stopped

until the plants have attained a size sufficient to warrant their

blooming.



Gardenias.--If any have been removed to the conservatory while in

bloom they should be returned to heat as soon as the bloom is over,

to encourage growth and to allow them sufficient time to mature their

growth.



Eutaxia myrtifolia.--It is a profuse and early bloomer. During the

summer and autumn every new shoot should be stopped as soon as it has

attained two or, at most, three joints: by such treatment it can be

easily formed into a neat, compact specimen.



Winter Flowers.--The Cinerarias, Chinese Primroses, Heliotropes,

Perpetual, Tea, and other Roses, will require frequent and diligent

attention as to watering, shifting, &c.





STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.



Give immediate and regular attention to the young stock of stove plants

intended for winter blooming. Keep up a moist temperature at all times;

with air during the day. When a few days of gloom occur, the humidity

that sometimes becomes stagnant and injurious should be dissipated by

a free circulation of air when bright weather returns. Keep a free

circulation of air amongst the Orchids by day; endeavour to supply an

abundance of atmospheric moisture during the latter part of the day; and

dispense with shading as much as possible by using it only during a few

hours of the hottest part of the day.



Pay every attention to specimen plants in the stove. Keep them neatly

tied to sticks, or trellises, as the case may require. Give them

a plentiful supply of water, and, if not in flower, syringe them

frequently overhead.



Stanhopeas.--About the end of this or the beginning of next month is the

most proper time to remove and repot them. Persons who wish to grow fine

specimens ought to put them in large baskets, or pots, so that they may

not require to be shifted for several years, as then the plants grow

much finer and flower better than when annually shifted. Now, as soon

as they have done flowering they commence growing, when they should

have plenty of heat and moisture until they have completed their

pseudo-bulbs, when they should be reduced to a comparative state of

rest by gradually withholding water until they show flower; then to

be supplied with atmospheric moisture, but should have no water at the

root, or at least but a small portion, until they begin to grow. As all

the plants belonging to this genus push their flowers downwards, it is

advisable to have them elevated, or put in baskets, where the flowers

can get through and show themselves to advantage.





FORCING-HOUSES.



Figs.--Supply with plenty of water the roots of the trees that are

swelling their second crop; ply the syringe frequently amongst the

foliage, and sprinkle the paths, &c., to keep the atmosphere moist.

Shut up early in the afternoon. As the fruit of the first crop ripens,

curtail the supply of atmospheric moisture--otherwise before they reach

maturity they are apt to turn mouldy. The roots to be regularly supplied

with water, and some liquid manure added about once a week to assist the

second crop. Keep down red spider by the application of sulphur in the

manner so frequently advised of late. Give the fruit that is ripening

the benefit of the sun, by fastening on one side the leaves that shade

it.



Peaches.--The fruit will be all the more delicious for a comparatively

cool temperature while ripening. Examine the fruit daily, and gather

before it is overripe and loses its flavour.



Pines.--Maintain a good bottom heat, and encourage the growth of the

advancing crop by kindly humidity and allowing them plenty of air and

sufficient space from plant to plant. Give air, also, freely to

the young stock in dungpits, to secure strong stocky growth; but a

circulation should not be allowed by giving back and front air at the

same time during hot drying winds. Attend to former directions to

afford the plants swelling their fruit a moist atmosphere by frequent

syringings and by sprinkling the paths and every other available surface

until the fruit begins to change colour, when the atmosphere and soil

should be kept rather dry, to improve the fruit's flavour. See to the

stools from which fruit have been cut. Earth them up, so as to cause

suckers to strike root. Give them a brisk bottom heat, and proper

supplies of water. You will thus gain time and assistance for the

suckers from the declining strength of the parent plant as long as

possible. It is now a good time to start a lot into fruit, as they will

have two or three most favourable months for swelling, and will come

in at a season when they are in very general request. Keep the bark-bed

moderately moist, as in that state it will retain its heat much longer

than if it is allowed to get dry.



Vines.--Keep up a brisk heat to the late Grapes during the day, as it

is advisable to get them well ripened before the season gets too far

advanced. By such means they will be of better quality and keep longer

than if the ripening process be delayed to a later period. Do not allow

plants in pots to remain in the house to cause damp, which, despite

every care in ventilating, is apt to settle on the berries and spoil

them. The outside borders of the late houses should be watered and

mulched, if the weather continue dry.